Vogue USA - 09.2019

(sharon) #1

SEPTEMBER 2019 VOGUE.COM 363


Dark Age

As a goth beauty revival arrives for fall, novelist

Chloe Aridjis revisits her brooding teenage

years and ruminates on why black is back.

NOCTURNAL ANIMALS


FROM BLOOD-WINE LIPS TO A


GHOSTLY PALLOR, GOTH


BEAUTY’S APPEAL IS EQUAL


PARTS ROMANCE AND


MELANCHOLY. DITA VON


TEESE AND MARILYN MANSON,


PHOTOGRAPHED BY STEVEN


KLEIN, VOGUE, 2006.


PRESENTED BY


Heavy was the mood this past March in Paris when Comme
des Garçons convened “a gathering of shadows,” as its fall show
was called. What counted as beauty—wan complexions and
strands of black hair like the tendrils of an oil slick—offered
a haunting complement to a sea of rubber, lace, and fishnet
that brought to mind marine creatures caught in a trawl. It was


industrial and doom-laden, futuristic rather than nostalgic—
cybergoth, to give it a name. After the procession, models stood
in a circle holding hands as they gazed into the overhead lights.
“Many small shadows come together to make one powerful
thing,” Rei Kawakubo, Comme’s reclusive, jet-haired designer,
explained later, suggesting that an amalgamation of dark
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