The Wall Street Journal Magazine - 09.03.2020

(Ann) #1

50 WSJ. MAGAZINE


F. MARTIN RAMIN, STYLING BY ANNE CARDENAS (SHOES)

WHAT’S NEWS


NEW THREADS
“It’s a little more
rounded and soft er,”
says Granath (far
left ), comparing the
approach he and Amel
(near left ) take to
tailoring (below) with
that of more tradi-
tional silhouettes.
Saman Amel’s jackets
startat about $1,500,
pants at $400 and
knitwear at $300.

A


TYPICAL MAN’S wardrobe is like a three-lane high-
way: hoodies and sneakers on the left, suits and
ties on the right and that nebulous middle lane
known as business casual, with its surfeit of dark
denim, button-up shirts and desert boots. Navigating these
lanes can be tough, especially for anyone hoping to reach a
cohesive sartorial aesthetic. But for Dag Granath and Saman
Amel, the duo behind Swedish tailoring house Saman Amel,
the answer is simple: Get off the road.
“People are not interested in having a ‘this is my going
to work’ wardrobe, and ‘this is my having breakfast with
my mother on a Sunday’ wardrobe,” says Granath, who
co-founded the Stockholm-based company alongside his
best friend and house namesake, Amel. “They just want a
wardrobe.” To that end, Granath and Amel use tailoring
as a foundation for a single, highly edited wardrobe that
can be tweaked to skew casual or formal, depending on
the setting.
It’s an appealing approach for those wanting to add
sophistication without looking like a character from Mad
Men. “I felt a need for something a bit more formal; however,
I wanted to keep a relaxed silhouette,” says Saman Amel cli-
ent Victor Melchior Olsson, a 31-year-old Stockholm-based
art director who fi rst noticed the brand on Instagram in
2016 and booked an appointment. “I immediately felt they
understood what I was looking for.” His fi rst suit was in
navy cashmere, with pants modeled after a loosefi tting ’90s
Armani pair he’d stolen from his dad.
“We always try to think about every client and their
wardrobe as a confi guration,” says Granath. “So when we
make something, we’re always going to have a plan for how
to integrate it into an existing wardrobe.” To accomplish
this, Granath and Amel rely on a luxury that has become
increasingly prized in this frenetic age—time. “In order
to create a product that a person will be able to grow old
together with,” Granath says, “you need to know your client
very well.”
Granath and Amel, both 26, met as schoolboys in
Stockholm, where they bonded over a love of soccer. Amel
already had an interest in clothes. “When I was 10, I got a
sewing machine from my mother because she wanted me to
be able to repair and play around with my own clothes,” he
says. “Making things with your hands has always been a big
thing in my family.” That early dabbling quickly evolved into


a full-fl edged passion. By their mid-teens, Amel and Granath
were making and selling their own neckties, and they both
ended up pursuing careers in the fashion industry. After
stints at several fashion houses, including J.Lindeberg,
the pair realized that it wasn’t “fashion” they were after. “I
became increasingly interested in handicraft, and less so
with making avant-garde design,” says Amel. In 2015, confi -
dent that they’d acquired enough experience and expertise,
as well as relationships with two Italian tailoring houses,
they launched their fi rst atelier in Stockholm.
Today, clients travel from as far as Los Angeles, Tokyo
and Singapore for Saman Amel’s custom services. Last
year, Amel and Granath launched two collaborations with
Mr Porter. This spring will see a follow-up, with a capsule
built around fi ve spring/summer looks, including tailoring
and knitwear in tones of dusty rose, light beige, teal and
mud. “We don’t want someone to be the loudest person in
the room, we want him to be the most comfortable person
in the room,” says Granath. “If you’re comfortable with the
way you dress, you’re going to feel at home with yourself.”

With brighter colors and sleeker soles, this season’s sneakers have a spring in their step. For details see Sources, page 114.


“MAKING
THINGS WITH
YOUR HANDS
HAS ALWAYS
BEEN A BIG
THING IN MY
FA M ILY.”
–SAMAN AMEL

BALENCIAGA

LOUIS VUIT TON MEN’S

MICHAEL KORS

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DOLCE & GABBANA

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