Jams and Preserves

Corfu: Making the Preserves

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‘Now that the robola* is safely on the way, the
Count can turn his attention to the kitchens with
their gleaming copper ware and dungeon-like
ovens. Here he busies himself with Caroline and
Mrs Zarian in the manufacture of mustalevria –
that delicious Ionian sweet or jelly which is
made by boiling fresh must to half its bulk with
semolina and a little spice. The paste is left to
cool on plates and stuck with almonds; and the
whole either eaten fresh or cut up in slices and
put away in the great store cupboard.
‘Sykopita, Zarian’s favourite fig cake, will
come later when the autumn figs are literally
bursting open with their own ripeness. But for
the time being there are conserves of all kinds to