included a few in this section on
cold food. In Spain, the south of
France, and Italy an hors d’oeuvre
is a very simple affair, consisting
usually of olives, salame sausage, a
tomato or pimento salad, and a
few anchovies in oil, or
alternatively a plate of fresh shell
fish, prawns, or oursins (those
spiny sea-urchins cut in half from
which you scoop out the coral with
a piece of bread). The Genoese are
fond of an antipasto of sardo (a
hard ewe’s milk cheese imported
from Sardinia), young raw broad
beans, and the local, rather highly
flavoured salame. In Greece your
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