PRACTICAL
On new builds the steel or
aluminium is coated with an
epoxy primer, then filled and
faired. This involves teams of
specialists applying a tough but
sandable two-pack epoxy filler
such as Awlfair or Watertight by
Nautix and then using a ‘long
board’ to sand (fair) it flat. This
process is repeated until the
surface is perfectly smooth.
On refits, the previous finish
will be a known quantity. The
project manager will record not
only the type of paint used, but
also the conditions under
which it was applied. If there’s
a problem with the finish, the
notes are checked to see how
it could have occurred.An immaculate finish needs a
good substrate. There’s no
point putting new paint down
on a flaky or unstable surface.
When it comes to superyachts,
the process is long and
involved, but equally relevant
to much smaller craft. The
preparation of the surface is
perhaps 90% of the total effort
of the finished result.
Essentially, it pays to mimic the
superyacht painter’s diligence.
Some boatbuilders are now
choosing to paint their larger
models, rather than relying on a
glossy gelcoat. This is because
achieving a mirror smooth finish
from the mould can be very
time consuming, and gelcoats
- especially dark colours –
gradually go chalky under
intense UV radiation. Instead, it
is easier to produce a matt finish
from the mould and then spray
it with two-pack polyurethane.
On GRP hulls that haven’t
been painted before, the biggest
challenge is decontamination.
The usual killer of a new paint
job is the residue from
silicon-based polishes or waxes,
or maybe some over-sprayed
WD40 or spilt oil or diesel. This
sits in the microscopic pores of
the gelcoat and causes a fish
eye effect on new paint. Only a
really deep clean with special
solvents can rid the hull of
these pesky contaminants.
Fairing is easy enough – the
products are available from anygood distributor, and easy to
apply. The fillers have been
formulated for different tasks- some are more for gap filling
so are harder, some designed
for below the waterline and so
on. Check the one you are using
is meant for the purpose. Paint
companies are very good with
their data sheets, with everything
you need to know online.
2: Fill and fair
HOW SUPERYACHTS DO IT
HOW SUPERYACHTS DO IT
THE PBO SOLUTION
THE PBO SOLUTION
Use exactly the same ideas,
but on a smaller scale. Drape
plastic sheeting over freshly
painted areas, ensuring it can’t
touch the surface. Cordon off
an area that has been freshlypainted, and work backwards
away from the job. The beauty
of two-pack is that it usually
dries quite quickly, so becomes
‘safe’ long before the usual
solvent-based one packs.Darkly pigmented gelcoats
can fade and go ‘chalky’
with age. While they can be
revived with treatments, many
boaters prefer to flat the old
finish back, and fair in any
scratches. After a thorough
degrease of the surface they
then overpaint with a tough
two-pack polyurethaneThis entire aluminium hull has
been coated with filler, and
a two-man team is now ‘long
boarding’ to sand it smooth. A
dust extraction system fitted
to the board minimises dustEvery completed area of a
yacht is protected until the
entire job is finished. This
prevents any accidental
damage from the workforce or
visitors, which could take many
hours to put rightGetting the perfect finish
means not trashing it during
application, which is
surprisingly easy to do.
Whenever I step aboard a new
build, I am always impressed
at how the yard seeks to cover
every finished surface to
protect against knocks and
bangs as the refit proceeds.
This pays dividends in the long
run as a lot of time can be lost
in having to recoat an area that
has been accidentally
damaged whilst the paint is still
not fully cured.
Freshly laid teak decks are
immediately covered with
hardboard taped tightly
together, and even the
stainless steel fittings arewrapped in plastic and tape. All
exposed furniture edges and
steps are diligently covered.
Not a splash of paint will affect
work already completed.3: Mask and protect