Practical Boat Owner – June 2019

(Sean Pound) #1

Q


I’m updating the
electrical system on my
1983 Ebbtide 33. The boat
has a common arrangement
of an engine battery and two
house batteries. What is
different to usual is that all
of the batteries are joined
together on the negative
side but the two house
batteries are not connected
together on the positive
side, ie all the batteries are
independent.
Each battery has its own
on/off switch and then has a
cable to its own busbar
which feeds a number of
instruments/items on the
boat. This means that if, say,
the battery feeding the auto
helm and nav lights runs flat
you can’t link any of the
other batteries to feed the
requirement and the flat
battery has to be charged
before the auto helm/nav
lights will work again.
I’m now in the process
connecting the house
batteries in parallel and
using a single bus bar to
feed the instruments etc.
My issue is that the engine
charging system runs
through what I presume is a
split charger with three
cables feeding the batteries,
one for each. When I join the
house batteries can I still
use this split charger?
If I need a new split


instead. VSR’s don’t have any
voltage drop issues that split
charge diodes tend to suffer
with. If there’s a 0.5V drop
across the diode itself, for
instance, that’s half a volt that
your batteries aren’t getting
and therefore will be
undercharged from the engine


  • though in your case the
    shore power battery charger
    and wind generator, would
    ensure the batteries get their
    full charge.
    VSRs basically work by
    connecting the +ve of the
    service bank to the +ve of the
    start battery for charging and
    then disconnecting when the
    engine is stopped. VSRs are
    not expensive; so personally
    that’s what I would do.
    When wiring a VSR, the start
    battery is considered as the
    ‘main battery’, when starting
    the engine the relay contact
    remains open so the start
    battery can recharge first, until
    it reaches a pre-set level (this
    varies slightly from
    manufacturer to manufacturer)
    but usually closes at about
    13.3V to 13.7V. The service
    bank is then connected and
    will charge accordingly. After
    the engine is stopped, the
    relay contact will remain
    closed until the voltage drops
    to the pre-set ‘open’ point
    (about 12.65V) then opens so
    the start battery is now
    disconnected from the service
    bank (so will not flatten start
    battery). It will now remain
    open until the voltage on the
    start battery achieves the
    pre-set ‘close’ point again.


more sense to do what you
are proposing, effectively
having one service bank (at
presumably twice the capacity
of one of the single batteries,
assuming they’re both the
same capacity) feeding a
single supply switch panel.
Currently fitted is a ‘one in’
‘three out’ split charge diode,
all three outputs are the same
so you can connect any
output to any of the batteries.
In this case you can just
remove one of the cables so
you are only going to use two
of the outputs. However, the
split charge diode itself does
look a little ropey, so I’m
inclined to suggest you
remove this altogether and fit
a VSR (voltage sensitive relay)

charger, which type would
you recommend? (I also
have a Promatic AC charger
which feeds each battery
and a wind generator that
does the same...)
Robert Tuckwood
Cotgrave, Nottingham

ANDY HAINES REPLIES:
The way your Ebbtide 33 was
wired is pretty unconventional
for a small boat.
It would have made more
sense if the two separate
service batteries (via separate
switches) fed a single switch
panel, therefore if one battery
went low, you could switch to
the other battery and things
would still have worked.
That said, it makes much

...bus bars that feed three
separate battery banks

Alternator wiring first goes to... ...the split charge diodes...

...which have three outputs that
lead to...

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Unconventional battery wiring


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