Boat International US Edition – May 2019

BOAT LIFE

have always thought that one of the greatest

challenges for designers isn’t creating

something new, but being expected to come

up with a fresh take on an existing “thing” – especially

one that not only looks different but is also better

functioning and more efficient.

As a result of the recent downturn experienced by

the watch industry, there has been a shortage

of truly innovative and interesting new designs, in

terms of aesthetics and engineering. So it came as a

pleasant surprise to visit the Vacheron Constantin

stand at this year’s SIHH show in Geneva and discover

that the historic firm (founded in 1755, so the oldest

dial name in continuous production) has developed a

genuinely fresh and useful mechanical movement.

Debuted in a new version of the Traditionelle

Perpetual Calendar model, the ingenious Twin

Beat movement does away with the age-old thinking

that the mainspring of a mechanical watch can run for

only a preordained amount of time by incorporating

not just the conventional single balance wheel, but dual

balance wheels that operate at different speeds.

Usually, the single balance wheel takes energy from

the mainspring and converts it into an oscillating

action that contributes to an even delivery of power to

the gear train, thus ensuring accuracy. The faster the

oscillations – which are measured in vibrations per

hour (vph) or hertz – the more accurate the

timekeeping. Slower oscillations, however, allow

Vacheron Constantin has added

cutting-edge technology to prolong

the life of its iconic timepiece,

as Simon de Burton discovers

Beat generation

PERPETUAL

MOTION

Vacheron Constantin

Traditionnelle Twin

Beat Perpetual

Calendar, $199,000

I

Famed Danish design house Georg Jensen is known for its partnerships with artists. Its

latest collection, Frequency, is a collaboration with LA-based interior designer Kelly

Wearstler, known for her modern take on Hollywood glamour. Wearstler studied the

similarities between California’s coastline and the Scandinavian landscape for the collection.

Inspired by the connection between water and light, she has used steel in reflective, wave-like

forms. “The wave is an iconic form from nature,” she says. “It has a pure spirit that resonates

on a visceral level.” Frequency Small Hurricane, $195, Large Hurricane, $250, georgjensen.com

Waves of steel

power to remain in the mainspring for longer, so the

watch has to be rewound less often.

The Twin Beat enables the wearer to switch between

an “active mode” frequency of 36,000vph when the

watch is being worn and a “standby mode” of a mere

8,640vph when it is off the wrist. The benefits of this

are that the watch is extremely accurate when on the

wrist, but will run for more than 65 days when set aside.

This is particularly useful on perpetual calendar

watches (that automatically account for leap years and

short months) because they are usually complicated

and time-consuming to reset if allowed to stop.

Vacheron Constantin has managed to fit the

exquisite, 480-part hand-wound movement into a

42mm platinum case and create a dial that indicates

the mode setting, power reserve, time, date,

month and leap year status with absolute

clarity. Whoever designed it, I applaud you.

And I’m glad I don’t have your job.

vacheron-constantin.com

Discover

the best new

watches from

Baselworld:

boatint.com/

baselworld-

2019

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