TURNING Yarn bowl
88 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking August 2019 http://www.getwoodworking.com
15 Next, I true up the top edge of the bowl before
hollowing, using a pull cut with the wing of the tool.
The top will be rounded over when I’ve decided how
thick I want the bowl to be12 Time to remove the small, flat area with a shear
cut. The long-grind bowl gouge is used almost upside
down with the tool being pulled towards you; the
bottom wing of the gouge will take a small, fine cut
as a result16 To work with the grain, I work from the big to
the small diameter making an ever increasing sized
hole in the bowl. The initial hollowing is completed
using a long-grind bowl gouge, and always with
the bevel in contact with the surface being cut
13 Instead of power sanding the outside, I’m going to
use the rotary sanding tool from Hope Woodturning.
As it rotates against the spinning wood, it therefore
generates less sanding marks
17 Carrying out an undercut with the bowl
gouge does require some practice but is pretty
straightforward when you understand how a
gouge works. The bevel of the tool needs to point
in the direction of cut – in this case to the left14 After I’ve remounted the bowl for hollowing,
I roughly mark out the slot which will be cut out
on the outside of the bowl. To aid with measuring
the wall thickness, I drill a series of holes as the
timber will be removed later in the process11 I am lucky to have this curved stainless steel
toolrest, which allows me to cut down from the rim.
The bevel of the tool is in contact with the timber’s
surface, which affords me the best control and finish10 The two arrows indicate the direction in which
the timber needs to be cut. From the small to the
large diameter is the best way of cutting a side-grain
blank such as this. Here you can see the flat area,
which I will leave until the end
18 The traditionally sharpened gouge with a short
bevel will fit into the undercut section of the bowl,
affording me much more control while advancing
through the cut