VOYAGE
building decorated with pieces from sailing boats – such as a chandelier over
the bar made from a bowsprit – and has been run by the owner’s family for
four decades. The captain of Celia’s favourite place to send guests for a meal
onshore is Tarsanas, located right on the shoreline, which is renowned for its
simple but sublime fresh seafood dishes and water views.
Away from the towns in this region there is no shortage of pretty little
harbours and coves to duck into during the day for swimming and watersports.
On the northern tip of Hydra we moor in Agios Giorgios, or St George, thus
named after the little church on shore, painted white with a bright blue door
matching the sea. Pine trees carpet the hillsides, covering the land in a rich
emerald. The trees have been shaped by the wind – the branches point
vertically while the trunks lean out as if trying to peer closer to the water. A
few guests head ashore to explore – for those who are desperate to stretch
their legs, you can hike from the church up to the summit of a small peak that
looks over the harbour. “The views are amazing from there,” says Kaia. The
rest of us take to the water toys, climbing on to the electric surf boards, paddle
boards, Sea-Doos and jet skis.
Though the cruise to get here felt quite breezy, as soon as we tuck into this
cove, the wind dies down and it feels deliciously warm despite it only being
May. These cruising grounds are protected by the fierce Meltemi winds that
overwhelm the Cyclades in summer.
Captain Grammatikos explains that
even in July and August when the
Meltemi blows in from the north,
respite can be found here. He
recommends adding the Greek
Riviera to any Aegean Sea itinerary.
“It’s always good to combine this area
with the Cyclades, and you can duck
in here when the weather isn’t as
“It’s always good to combine
this area with the Cyclades,
you can duck in here whenthe weather isn’t as good
or the winds are too strong”