Practical Boat Owner – August 2019

EVERGLADES

NATIONAL PARK

JOHN PENNEKAMP

CORAL REEF

STATE PARK

BAHIA HONDA

STATE PARK

Florida

Bay

Gulf of

Mexico

Straits of Florida

FLORIDA

USA

FLORIDA

KEYS

Key

Biscayne

Key Largo

Tavernier

Mangrave

Marina

Coral Bay Resort

LOWER MATECUMBE KEY

KEY LARGO

LIGNUMVITAE KEY

LOOE KEY

BIG PINE INDIAN KEY

KEY

LOWER KEYS Marathon

Key West

Big

Pine

Miami Miami

Beach

North

Miami

N

Caribbean

Sea

Atlantic

Ocean

THE

FLORIDAKEYS BAHAMAS

JAMAICA

CUBA

Key

West

West Palm

Beach

Jupiter

Miami

Havana

Nassau

FLORIDA

USA

Pilot House

Marina

Fowey

Rocks

Light

Bahia Honda

railway bridge

City of

Washington

wreck

X

nautical miles

0 20

We spent a blissful seven days enjoying
the stunning scenery, and at one point
headed six miles offshore to Fowey Rocks
Light, where we enjoyed a quick swim and
lunch on the still, emerald waters. We
were the only boat there with the
exception of a typical Miami superyacht
that quickly grew bored and hustled away.
After lunch, we ran the 40 nautical miles
to Key Largo’s John Pennekamp State
Park, where we berthed for the night.
Though the Miami skyline stubbornly
persisted, it eventually faded away into the
background, leaving us free at sea.
Biscayne National Park, one of three
National Parks in South Florida,
encompasses the islands between Miami
and Key Largo. Save for park facilities,
these islands are completely undeveloped
and infrequently travelled, allowing us a
glimpse of rugged tropical wilderness.
During the first part of the trip, university
friends James and Joe joined us for a day
of free diving, where we explored the City
of Washington wreck and witnessed
elkhorn coral in the wild for the first time.
The highlight of our diving excursions
occurred on the first day when, about an
hour before dusk, we saw four massive
spotted eagle rays glide majestically
through the deep. After such an exciting
time with friends, the rest of the trip could
not hope to compare, though it was
memorable for other reasons...
The day after James and Joe left, Avery
and I blasted to the Lower Keys in one
afternoon where we tied up at Bahia
Honda State Park for the night. We jogged
to the old Bahia Honda railway bridge,
once a part of Henry Flagler’s ‘Railroad
that Went to Sea,’ but now a rusting hulk
from which to watch the sunset. It was

when we got back to the boat that the

mosquito onslaught began. We will never

forget that night! Alone in the park save for

one other motor trawler and a handful of

campers, we had few allies in our war

against nature. It was at that moment, we

realised what early visitors to tropical

Florida must have endured; we now

understood why stranded sailors buried

themselves in the sand at night.

Due to poor planning we had to shower

at the park’s outdoor showers, while

simultaneously attempting to fend off a

squadron of kamikaze mosquitoes!

The reason the mosquitoes are so bad in

natural areas of the Florida Keys is because

they are not sprayed with pesticides – a

double-edged sword. Fortunately, we

managed to borrow some insect repellent

from the only other boat in the harbour,

which kept the attackers at bay.

After a much-needed respite, we tried to

head offshore to Looe Key but the wind

and waves kicked up due to an incoming

PRACTICAL

ABOVE and LEFT

Now you see it,

now you don’t!

Leaving Miami in

the sunshine...

and returning

in choppy seas,

grateful for our

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