26 WORLD WAR II
the museums, stores, and
restaurants speak Eng-
lish; the museums’ inter-
active displays are similarly
bilingual. The smaller and
older of the two museums tells
the stories of submarine wrecks, while
the principal museum, housed in K2,
explores the history of Lorient through
the centuries. There is some fascinating
footage from World War II, particularly
of U-boats arriving back from patrols.
About a third of exhibits are devoted to
the wartime era, and if there is a weak-
ness in the museums it’s the lack of a
German perspective; it would have been
interesting to hear more of what life was
like for the occupiers, whether on U-boat
patrol or in constructing the bunkers. But
again, history is written by the victors.
The museums are a treat, but there is
much to be said for simply strolling
around La Base at one’s leisure. I find a
park bench by the water’s edge and sit for
a few minutes in the sunshine, my gaze
alternating between the bunkers in the
distance and the guidebook I bought in
the museum store. I then head to K1,
where in front of one of the pens I watch
two men repairing a small boat.
The engineers who constructed the
U-boat base would be proud to know that
their work is still operational, particu-
larly given the ferocity with which the
Allies tried to destroy the three bunkers.
The RAF’s August 1940 bomb raid was
ineffectual, and the British did not sub-
ject the base to sustained large-scale
bombardment until 1943. By then, notonly had the bunkers
been constructed, but the
Germans had also install-
ed a formidable antiaircraft
defense around the city. Still,
in the first three months of 1943,
British and American bombers dropped
thousands of tons of bombs on Lorient,
laying waste to the city and port while
reducing its civilian population from
46,000 to 500. Most were evacuated,
although 206 were killed in air raids.
Those that remained sought refuge in the
underground city center shelter—which
is preserved in its original condition and
accessible on an official guided tour—
though people would have been just as
safe sheltering in the one million cubic
yards of reinforced concrete comprising
bunkers K1, K2, and K3. The three bun-
kers passed into new ownership on May
10, 1945, two days after the German com-
mander of the Lorient Pocket signed an
unconditional surrender. The French
soon established their own submarine
f leet in Lorient; one of their Cold War
vessels, Flore, is now a museum piece on
the esplanade between bunkers K1 and
K2. I get a sense, passing through the
Flore, of what a remarkable breed subma-
riners are to endure such a life.
Of the 38,000 men who served in
U-boats in World War II, only 8,000 sur-
vived. No other branch of any service of
any nation suffered such a high casualty
rate. La Base is a silent yet striking trib-
ute to their sacrifice and that of every
man and woman brave enough to take to
sea in a submarine. + MAP^ B
Y^ BRIAN^ WALKERLorient is 300 miles west of
Paris and serviced by a regu-
lar high-speed train; the trip
takes three hours (sncf.com/
en). La Base, three miles from
the train station, is accessible
by taxi or the T2 bus. The
nearest airport is in Brest, 85
miles northwest, and offers
direct flights from Paris,
London, and other cities.
WHERE TO
STAY AND EAT
The hotel nearest to La Base
is the Best Western Plus
Les Rives Du Ter (lesrives-
duter.com), just one mile
away. It overlooks the Ter
River and has a bar, restau-
rant, and pool. The La Base
complex contains a crêperie,
bistro, and restaurant, provid-
ing a comprehensive selec-
tion of food and drinks.
WHAT ELSE TO
SEE AND DO
The stunning island of Groix
(brittanytourism.com) lies
nine miles off Lorient and is
accessible by regular ferry
service (compagnie-oceane.
fr/en). With hotels and restau-
rants, 25 miles of bicycle
paths, the only convex beach
in Europe, and a 1,900-acre
nature reserve—the reserve’s
Pointe de Pen Men cliffs are
known for its 1836 lighthouse
and the colonies of nesting
marine birds—the island is
perfect for a few days of R&R.
About 30 miles southeast of
La Base is the extraordinary
Quiberon Peninsula (brit-
tanytourism.com). Nine miles
long and just 72 feet wide at
its narrowest point, the penin-
sula offers spectacular walks,
the remains of a Roman fish
farm, and a Bronze Age fort.
Saint-Pierre-Quiberon,
the peninsula’s main village,
features seafood restaurants,
art galleries, and shops.WHEN
YOU GO
Lorient’s former naval base is
today “La Base,” a hub for tourists
and watersport enthusiasts.Lorient FRANCEParisENGLISH
CHANNELAT L A N TIC
OCEAN