To be honest, given the way the
indicators had flashed on the main fob
and the fact that the passenger door
always opened without a problem, I
couldn’t see that this new functionality
using the spare fob was down to
anything other than chance and the
temperamental nature of the problem
manifesting itself. Sure enough, with
the latch closed I used the spare
key fob and it locked and unlocked
the doors 20 times in a row. I then
tried the main fob and, of course, it
worked 20 more times in a row.
I felt the fobs were working fine but
that the lock mechanism in the driver’s
door was sticking sometimes, but not
always. Roger agreed, adding: “Chances
are that the mechanical function has
become dirty, dry and perhaps corroded
and this is creating a resistance sufficient
to stop the motor moving the locking
mechanism from the Superlocked
(deadlocked) position to allow
mechanical unlocking and then opening.”
Before I could risk closing the door
and using the car, I had to address this
issue. So I removed the door card, the
plastic liner behind it and the lock
actuating mechanism itself. A lot of
the mechanism’s moving parts are
on the face you cannot see with it in
situ, so there was no alternative but
to remove it and wiggle it out of the
doorframe past the window channel.
Once the mechanism was on the
bench, I could not see anything that was
obviously bent, broken or otherwise
damaged but it was certainly very dry.
With access all around the unit, I sprayed
it liberally with a silicone lubricant that
was suitable for both metal and plastic
parts, working the mechanism a few
times as I sprayed to get the lubrication
where it needed to go. Once refitted,
I tried it again on the fob. After 20
successful actuations in a row, I took a
deep breath, opened the latch mechanism
with the screwdriver and shut the door.
After 20 more successful actuations,
I was as confident as I could be that it
was now OK, so I refitted the door card
and normal service has, so far, been
resumed. A replacement lock mechanism
is available from the likes of Rimmer Bros
for £150 (part number FQJ102262PMA),
so that will be my next step if the problem
returns. I just have to hope that if it does
come back, it remains an intermittent
problem so that I can get the door open
eventually, otherwise my saving of
£150 this time around may not end up
being too smart in the long run.▲ With the TF’s interior door trim and the plastic sheeting behind it removed,
I was then able to gain access to the vehicle’s door lock actuating mechanism.(^84) MGE AUGUST 2019 http://www.mgenthusiast.com
▲ With the cables and linkages disconnected, you can remove the whole door
lock mechanism, examine and lubricate it. Fingers crossed that it is sorted now!
▲ That’s it in there, hiding against the vertical panel at the rear of the door.
It is a tight fit but, with patience, I was able to carefully manoeuvre it out.