The busy fi shing quay feels timeless and the distant vistas
towards old Andratx reminds you that a couple of centuries ago
the locals would have retreated inland within solid walls when
pirates were about. Now you can catch a bus to the town and
explore its haunted cobbled streets and hidden steps between
crumbling limestone buildings. Despite all the estate agent signs,
smart cars and fashionable residents, the fl ux of history trickles
through Andratx from all directions. This was my fi rst ever
port-of-call in Mallorca and I always regard it with affection.
(^7) CALA DE LA CALOBRA
Lying on Mallorca’s north coast about six miles east of Puerto
de Sóller, this unique inlet is a spectacular cala surrounded
by wild mountainous cliffs.
At the head of the inlet is a narrow gorge – the Torrent
de Pareis – where a tumbling stream meets the sea through a
gin-clear lagoon. Tourist ferries bring visitors to see this gorge
and there’s a hotel and café in the south-west corner of the bay,
but you can still feel the untamed spirit of Mallorca here.
There are two golden beaches and the turquoise water is out
of this world. Anchoring here is a treat, although Calobra is open
to the north and you should clear out if any hint of a northerly
shows its face. Puerto de Sóller is an excellent bolt-hole.
One benefi t of Calobra from an anchoring point of view is
that this heavenly cala is diffi cult to reach by road so locals are
the main visitors. Calobra is well off the main route that runs
through the Serra de Tramuntana mountains, so it’s a major
trek for tourists to get here. Landing at one of the beaches,
you can wander ashore through the cascading gorge, marvelling
at this truly amazing place.
MENORCA
(^8) CALA FORNELLS
Thirty miles east of Pollensa Bay, Menorca is a cruising treat
because it feels so laid back. The least developed of the Balearics,
Menorca is lower than most of Mallorca and its shores are less
dramatic. The south coast is fairly straight, with beaches and
calas at frequent intervals. The more rugged north is exposed
when the tramontaña wind blows, but has some choice calm-
weather anchorages. At the east end of the island, the capital Port
Mahón has one of the fi nest natural harbours in the Med.
Lying 18 miles north-west of Mahón, Cala Fornells is my
fi rst choice for anchoring in Menorca. The narrow entrance leads
between steep cliffs before opening into quite a shallow expanse
as large as Port Mahón. You can anchor off Port de Fornells, a
small harbour on the west shore just inside the narrows. Fornells
village is quaint and friendly with a few basic shops. However,
we always make for the upper reaches of the inlet where the
sense of scale is magnifi cent.
Fornells is one of the best windsurfi ng and kayaking centres
in the Balearics. During the summer the whole bay is alive
with colourful sails, so there’s plenty to watch. Fornells is the
kind of place where you arrive for a couple of days and end up
staying a week.
(^9) CALA SANTA GALDANA
Half a dozen miles east of Cabo Dartuch, Santa Galdana is
one of the best protected anchorages on Menorca’s south coast,
though you must leave if a steady south-westerly comes on to
PILOTS AND GUIDES
The most comprehensive and detailed
pilot for this area is Islas Baleares, by
the RCC Pilotage Foundation, 11th
edition published by Imray in 2018.
It has details on all the harbours,
marinas and calas round the islands,
plus passage notes, formalities and
a short history of the archipelago.
For a quirky look at Mallorca’s food,
history and culture, Bread and Oil
by Tomás Graves gives a wonderful
insight into island life.
Veer off the tourist track at
dramatic Cala de la Calobra
Menorca’s Cala Fornells is a
laid-back, picturesque place
to drop anchor
CRUISING