NZ Hunter – August 2019

to be aware of. First is that the camera

takes time to work its magic on the

image and in each case, that time

will be exactly the same time as your

exposure. For example, if your exposure

is ten minutes long, the camera will take

another ten minutes to complete its

noise reduction process, during which

time the camera is unusable. Second is

that the results of the process vary and

in some cases may even make the noise

worse. The only way to know of course is

to give it a go, comparing the results with

an image that had the long exposure NR

turned off.

Method 2 -

Multiple Shots

A far better method which produces

more pleasing and cleaner images is

to take a series of shorter exposures

and combine them on the computer

later, using one of the many dedicated

star trail programmes such as ‘StarStaX’

or ‘Startrails’. These free and easy-to-use

downloads can be found at the following

website addresses respectively:

https://www.markus-enzweiler.de/

StarStaX/StarStaX.html

http://www.startrails.de/html/

software.html

So, using the static star image

exposure of 30 seconds as a starting

point, take a couple of test shots

experimenting with different settings

to obtain a good clean image with nice

bright stars in the same way as shooting

a normal static star image. Once you’re

happy with the shot, it is a simple case of

repeating that image 50 to 100 times. The

more frames you include, the longer the

trails will be. This is where your remote

release makes things so much easier.

Depending on the model, you will be able

to programme the release to take say fifty

30-second shots consecutively. Above is a

photograph showing the one I use.

From left to right the settings signify

the following:

Delay = time delay before the first shot

is triggered (the highlight bar in this case

signifies it is on the ‘delay’ setting which

has been set at 1 minute).

Long = how long the shutter will stay

open for each shot.

Intvl = time between each shot (usually

only needs to be a couple of seconds

• much more and you will end up with
  gaps in the trails).
  N (figure in brackets) = number of
  individual frames that will be taken (50 in

Awatere Valley and Mt Tapuaenuku

• very cool tapered 'comet' trails can
  be achieved in post-production (see
  method two below)
  40 x 30 seconds @ f/2.8, ISO 800

An Awatere Valley image of fifty

30-second frames combined in ‘Startrails’.

As can be seen, I didn’t have the camera at

the optimal 41-degree angle to place the

centre of rotation better in the frame

50 x 30 seconds @ f/2.8, ISO 400

Same view as the opening image in issue 71 but

this time a total of 120-odd images combined to

create a 'rotating' sky.

August / September 2019 ~ NZ HUNTER MAGAZINE 57

to be aware of. First is that the camera

takes time to work its magic on the

image and in each case, that time

will be exactly the same time as your

exposure. For example, if your exposure

is ten minutes long, the camera will take

another ten minutes to complete its

noise reduction process, during which

time the camera is unusable. Second is

that the results of the process vary and

in some cases may even make the noise

worse. The only way to know of course is

to give it a go, comparing the results with

an image that had the long exposure NR

turned off.

Method 2 -

Multiple Shots

A far better method which produces

more pleasing and cleaner images is

to take a series of shorter exposures

and combine them on the computer

later, using one of the many dedicated

star trail programmes such as ‘StarStaX’

or ‘Startrails’. These free and easy-to-use

downloads can be found at the following

website addresses respectively:

https://www.markus-enzweiler.de/

StarStaX/StarStaX.html

http://www.startrails.de/html/

software.html

So, using the static star image

exposure of 30 seconds as a starting

point, take a couple of test shots

experimenting with different settings

to obtain a good clean image with nice

bright stars in the same way as shooting

a normal static star image. Once you’re

happy with the shot, it is a simple case of

repeating that image 50 to 100 times. The

more frames you include, the longer the

trails will be. This is where your remote

release makes things so much easier.

Depending on the model, you will be able

to programme the release to take say fifty

30-second shots consecutively. Above is a

photograph showing the one I use.

From left to right the settings signify

the following:

Delay = time delay before the first shot

is triggered (the highlight bar in this case

signifies it is on the ‘delay’ setting which

has been set at 1 minute).

Long = how long the shutter will stay

open for each shot.

Intvl = time between each shot (usually

only needs to be a couple of seconds

• much more and you will end up with
  gaps in the trails).
  N (figure in brackets) = number of
  individual frames that will be taken (50 in

Awatere Valley and Mt Tapuaenuku

• very cool tapered 'comet' trails can
  be achieved in post-production (see
  method two below)

40 x 30 seconds @ f/2.8, ISO 800

An Awatere Valley image of fifty

30-second frames combined in ‘Startrails’.

As can be seen, I didn’t have the camera at

the optimal 41-degree angle to place the

centre of rotation better in the frame

50 x 30 seconds @ f/2.8, ISO 400

Same view as the opening image in issue 71 but

this time a total of 120-odd images combined to

create a 'rotating' sky.

August / September 2019 ~ NZ HUNTER MAGAZINE 57