boatinternational.com 09 2019BOAT LIFE
PHOTOGRAPHY: CORY RICHARDS PHOTOGRAPHY; CORY RICHARDS/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC IMAGE LIBRARY
Most climbing deaths on Everest occur on the
descent after reaching the peak, while still in
the perilous “Death Zone” above 8,000 metreswatch is adorned with a 22kt gold engraving of
Everest on its back, taken from one of Richards’
photographs, along with his name. The goal, he
says, was to create something “both structurally
bombproof, that could withstand an expedition
like this, but also something beautiful”. The dual
time element proved very important to Richards
because it gave him a sense of “connectedness”
to people back home. “There’s a whole world that
exists outside of the moment that I am in. It is a
reminder to be careful. It’s a reminder that I am
loved, and that I love.”
All of the 8,000-metre peaks have been climbed
without oxygen but, says Richards, “It’s [Everest’s]
extra 230 metres that is torture for people. There’s
something about that extreme elevation that
literally shuts people down.” At that altitude, in
the so-called Death Zone, hypoxia sets in: the lack
of oxygen makes you nauseous, gives you violent
headaches, and as you are unable to eat, your body
begins to consume its own muscle fibre. “There
seems to be some kind of marker for the human
body,” Richards explains. “It’s hard above 7,000
metres, but once you hit 8,000 it becomes very,
very difficult indeed.”
When you sleep at that elevation “you are
wasted,” he says. On the customary approach
from the south side, Hillary and Tenzing’s route,
you go up steeply and you come down steeply on
the final stretch to the summit. But the Northeast
Ridge is far more dangerous because of the body’s
prolonged exposure to the extreme elevation.
Having trained for more than a year, Richards
and Topo spent a month acclimatising at
4,000 metres. Then, their plan was to dash to the
summit, stopping only at night. “But without
oxygen, without any support on a new route, and
in this year’s short weather window, it wasn’t
going to happen,” Richards explains. They spent
one freezing night at about 7,300 metres without
a tent, and in the morning decided to abandon
the climb and descend. It was disappointing, he
admits, but at least “we failed beautifully”. Failure
is an essential part of success, he adds. “I’ll go
back to finish this route.”
Given the bad press that Everest has attracted
during this climbing season (one of the deadliest,
with at least 11 victims) with widely circulated
reports of overcrowding and unruly behaviour,
what needs to change? “A lot is different from the
1920s when Mallory and Irvine were there, but alotisn’t,”hereplies.“Peoplearegoingtodie
climbingthatmountain.It’sinherentlyrisky.
Anditshouldberisky:thatispartofwhatmakes
thesportspecial.Themoreseverethepossible
consequences,thebiggerthereward.Whenwe
areclosertolosinglife,thenwevalueitmore.”
But,hecontinues,“Whathaschangedistheidea
ofEverest.Andthat’ssomethingthatIthink
TopoandIweretryingtoalteralittlebit.While
therewasatrafficjamoverthereonthesouthern
face,wewerealone.Therewasnobodynearus,
nodeadbodies,nogarbage.Themountainwas
asithasalwaysbeen.Everestisnotdead.It’sstill
asspecialasithaseverbeen.” B“It’s risky –
that is part
of what
makes the
sport special.
The more
severe the
possible
consequences,
the bigger
the reward”Above: a Vacheron
Constantin
Overseas Dual
Time watch
of the type
Richards wore
while climbing
Everest. Left and
below: Richards
on the mountain.
Bottom: the selfie
that made the
cover of National
Geographic