itself. A current runs clockwise around the
coast but it’s not strong and need not be a
major issue in planning a circumnavigation. I
have always left from Stornoway in the Outer
Hebrides when bound there. Weather
dictates the passage with reasonably
accurate forecasts available from a variety
of sources. If the jet stream and weather
pattern seem disturbed I opt for the short run
to the Faroes and then when conditions are
right, leave from Vagar or Eidi with the
prospect of about two days at sea before
reaching the east coast of Iceland.
Seydisfjordur is the best place if you are
changing crew but don’t dismiss the area
known as the East Fjords a little further south
- they’re great for walking and are less
populated. From there the obvious direction
is northabout with some long hauls and the
The stark Arctic
wilderness is
awe-inspiring,
but also makes
you feel small
and utterly
insignificant
relative to
its scaleA somewhat chilly
and apprehensive crew
approach GreenlandEXPERT ON BOARD