Yachting Monthly – September 2019

golden rule is to go ahead of them, going
around behind can bring you into contact
with a trail of growlers and bergy bits that
have broken off the main iceberg. Big ice will
show on your radar, the smaller bits probably
won’t – especially if any kind of sea is
running – so a sharp look-out is essential.
Fog often accompanies ice and that plus
wind is a bad combination. When in doubt,
change tack, head out to sea and heave to
until conditions improve. Icebergs are
endlessly fascinating but they are unstable
and can roll with little warning.
Dealing with pack-ice can present
problems. Again, my view is that anything
above three-tenths concentration should be
avoided but if you do get beset, don’t force
your way out – sit tight, hope for the best
and wait for a lead to open.

ANCHORING

TECHNIQUES

Some skippers like to

anchor bow out from the

land and as the fjords are

deep you will need plenty

of chain – 50 metres if

possible and a couple of

long lines to attach to

something solid on the

shore. This assumes you have chosen a spot

clear of passing bergs. If there is any danger

of ice drifting into your anchorage, lie to

anchor and be ready to buoy the chain and

cast off if you have to. Carry a tuk – a long

pole with a pointed end – to push off any

chunks of ice drifting in the anchorage.

MAPS AND CHARTS

Charts for some areas, especially east

Greenland, frequently lack detail and are

being overtaken anyway by freshly exposed

coastline as global warming accelerates the

ice melt. I have a selection of land maps

which in some cases give old sledging

routes but are useful to get a ‘feel’ for the

landscape. Electronic charts are based on

the most up-to-date hydrographic charts and

consequently repeat whatever errors may

have been there in the first place. The

Danish Meteorological Service publishes

regular Egg charts. These show ice

concentrations and direction of drift.

My approach is to use every source of

information available, travel with care and

keep a lookout in the fjords or near land.

GETTING HOME

You can expect extended motoring calms in

Arctic waters during July and August

interspersed with occasional periods of

strong winds and local katabatic howlers.

Conditions can go downhill very fast as more

turbulent Atlantic weather starts to dominate

from about September onwards. I exercise

caution and get as far south as possible

before things change for the worse.

An Egg ice chart published by

the Danish Met Service

Waiting for a lead to

open in pack-ice

EXPERT ON BOARD