MARCH 2005 MAXIMUMPC 5
Now is a good time to prepare your work area, preferably in
a sunny spot outdoors away from people, plants, and other
fragile living things. If you’re painting outdoors, do it on days
that are low in humidity. Water vapor in the air significantly
slows drying time and can even cause the paint to haze as
moisture is trapped between the coats of paint. If you have no
choice, get your parts into a warm, dry place between coats of
paint. Aerosol spray paint is best applied when temperatures
are between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit and when winds
are low, so keep this in mind when selecting your work area.
For the work surface, a pair of sawhorses with a plywood
top is perfect. Protect your work area from overspray with
newspaper; just remember to tape the paper down to avoid
a gust of wind (or the spray-can propellant) from blowing it
onto your painted parts.
We probably don’t need to tell you this, but make sure you’re
not standing downwind when applying your paint!
1
Having sanded all my panels, it’s
time for a little cleanup. I like to use
denatured alcohol on bare metal
because it evaporates quickly and
removes any oils left over from the
original manufacturing. Removing the
oils is important if you decide to paint the
interior of your case, even though this is
often left unfinished. Painting the interior,
however, does give your rig a nice, finished (dare we say it?),
automotive look.2
Painter’s masking paper is your best bet for protecting your
case from overspray, drips, and the little accidents that are
bound to happen with painting. Using newspaper to protect
your case is acceptable only if you apply the sheets in several
layers because it
tends to be porous
and allows the paint
to bleed through.
Using a low-tack
painter’s masking
tape like the blue
tape shown here
is recommended
because it will be
left on for a few
days while the paint
dries between coats.
Carefully cut away
excess masking tape
with a pen knife,
being careful not to
mar the surface of
your case.Step Three: Cleaning and Masking
1
It’s time to get that
rattle can shaking
and get down to
business. Use a clean
rag or tack cloth to
remove any debris or
particles from your
work. After shaking the
can of spray primer for
a minute or so, give a
3-second blast of paint
onto a piece of scrap
paper to charge the can
and clear out any dried
particles. Start spraying
the paint for a moment
off of the panel and then across it in a sweeping motion about
10 inches away from the surface, ending each course of paint off
the panel. You should start painting at the bottom of the panel
and work toward the top, holding the can at a slight angle to
the work so the spray pattern is evenly distributed and slightly
overlapping each course. Don’t stop in the middle of your work
and change directions. Stopping or changing painting directions
can cause the paint to pool and create heavy spots. Your first
coat will only be a light dusting of paint, and after about 8-12
minutes, you can apply another. The primer coat doesn’t have to
be perfect, so it’s a good opportunity to practice your sweeping
motions for the color coats.
2
Three or four coats of primer should be enough to cover
the surface; after that, let your piece dry for about an hour
in a warm, dry area or a nice sunny spot where it won’t be
disturbed. Let the primer dry properly and thoroughly—don’t
poke at it, pick debris from it, or otherwise look at it funny. Leave
it be, and go do something else.Step Four: Priming