S
quamish is one of the best places in the world to explore the vast wonderland of
terrain above the tree line. It’s where trails snake their way along exposed ridges,
across rolling meadows bursting with wildflowers, to the toes of glaciers or crystal
blue tarns, or the summits of mountains that remain inaccessible for most of the year.
As the centrepiece of world famous Sea to Sky country, Garibaldi P rovincial Park
is a phenomenally scenic playground encompassing nearly 2,000 square kilometres
between Squamish and Pemberton, just an hour north of Vancouver. The park boasts
nu merous well-g roomed t r a ils to w ild dest inat ions such a s Taylor Meadows, P a nor a ma
Ridge and the Helm Creek cinder f lats surrounding the mighty, iconic Black Tusk.
Whilst the possibilities for mountain running throughout Garibaldi are vast, the park ’s
southern Diamond Head region sits just outside of Squamish, offering trail runners
quick and convenient access to a gigantic slice of mountain running heaven.
Diamond Head features the Elfin Lakes Trail, which follows Paul Ridge for
11 kilometres to the idyllic Elfin Lakes, and the Elfin Shelter, a popular backcountry hut
perched below the southern slopes of Mount Garibaldi.
The trail to Elfin Lakes couldn’t be easier to follow. From a large gravel parking lot,
the route leads up a forested Jeep track for five kilometres to the Red Heather Hut, a
small warming hut at the tree line with kitchen facilities and a wood-burning stove,
used primarily by backcountry skiers in winter. From here, it continues another six
kilometres to Elfin Lakes on a wide-groomed path with a gentle incline, with abso-
lutely epic views in 360 degrees. To the west is the jagged, Alps-like Tantalus Range.
To the east is the mighty sprawl of the Mamquam massif. And to the immediate north,
well that’s Mount Garibaldi and Atwell Peak, commonly known as Diamond Head.
Appearing as one, this twin-peaked dome dominates the Squamish Valley backdrop
and is impossible to miss.
The area in general has been wildly popular for nearly a century. The original Diamond
Head Lodge was built by Norwegians Emil and Ottar Brandvold, and Canadian Joan
Mathews in the 1930s. For over 30 years the lodge was a renowned destination for hikers,
snowshoers and skiers all who came for the breathtaking scenery. The lodge eventually
closed down in 1973 but was replaced with the current Elfin Shelter in 1974.
It’s safe to say that Elfin Lakes is one of British Columbia’s most beloved alpine
regions, and a jewel of Garibaldi P rovincial Park. Runners seeking a little extra distance
can venture up to Saddle Ridge to overlook the fabled Gargoyles, a series of rotten and
exposed volcanic spines. But most will stop at Elfin Lakes, enjoying the area as an out
and back alpine run that will sear into mind as a rugged, colourful and surprisingly
accessible piece of B.C.’s most iconic wilderness.
Elfi n Lakes,
Squamish, B.C.
The alpine is a trail runner’s Eden, and few places rival
southwestern B.C.’s Elfin Lakes
Story and Photos by Rich Wheater