“There’s something about self-awareness that makes you desire less, that
makes you less interested in searching for things outside of yourself.
You begin to find that most of what you need is right inside.”
Swoon. Heart connection achieved. I ask him what else is important to him.
“To have a positive effect on people. Whether we just go paddling,
have an experience in the ocean, develop a relationship with the ocean,
or through XPTlife, by giving them an experience that changes their lives,
or my superfood coffee creamer that improves the quality of everyday life
and makes them healthier. I enjoy being able to help if someone is sick,
or hurt, or searching for some sort of life change. I get joy from inspiring
someone to believe in themselves, to follow their dreams. My film, the su-
perfood, the clothing line...everything I do is authentic to me, and my be-
liefs, and meant to be something that improves your experience of life.”
“Speaking of clothing, Laird...boxers, briefs, or commando?” Yes, I
asked that aloud.
“I like briefs. I used to sleep in my surf shorts, but Gabby said I wasn’t
allowed to anymore. I would literally sleep in surf shorts so I could just
get up in the morning and go. Commando’s a little rough for a surfer—a
little vulnerable. Definitely not boxers, I like the long brief, it’s like shorts.”
I can hear through the ambient noise on the phone that he has reached
his destination. My time is almost up. I say, “Close your eyes and take a
deep breath for a minute. As a person, as a man, what lights you up?” I
hear the breath he’s been talking about. And then...
“Which side of me? I mean as a man, as a purely mortal, physical
creature—Gabby. As a dad, my daughters...the way they put their hand
on my hair. The giant waves. I’m not that complex. Things that light me
up you can’t buy. I can’t buy Gabby, I can’t buy my children, I can’t buy
my friends. I can’t buy hard work, and I can’t buy a giant wave. Maybe
in the future, I might be able to buy a giant wave,” he laughs, “At that
point I’d probably spend everything I had almost.”The documentary Take Every Wave: The Life of Laird Hamilton premiered at
the Sundance Film Festival in 2017 and will be opening in select theaters starting
September 29: ifcfilms.com/films/take-every-wave-the-life-of-laird-hamilton
For more information about Laird Hamilton including his XPTlife program, visit:
lairdhamilton.com
Check out his line of coffee, superfood creamer, superfood hydrators, and more
at: lairdsuperfood.com and see his clothing online at: lairdapparel.com
Laird Hamilton’s wife Gabrielle (Gabby) Reece is a professional volleyball player,
sports announcer, model and actress: gabriellereece.com
Zoë Kors is a writer, speaker, coach, and wannabe big wave surfer: zoekors.com