ARRIVING IN RISHIKESHfeels like a
cominghome. The flowing Ganaga,
the air hazed with incense smoke and
flavoured with the smell of ceremony.
The self-professed world capital of yoga
has my heart, and it’ll take yours too.
After travelling to Rishikesh in
Northern India for the first time in 2014,
I’ve found myself back every year since.
It’s a place for study in yoga and life, and
for deep personal growth. Rishikesh is
not a place for a relaxing holiday, but a
place to put away distractions, surround
yourself with positive people and get
down to the dedicated work of yoga.
YOGA
Even without the picturesque location,
the yoga is worth the plane ride on its
own. It’s everything that yoga used to be
- slow, complex and challenging in new
and unfamiliar ways (if you’re used to
yoga in the west).
Although the teachers are incredible,
they seldom have a functional website
let alone any social media to research
classes. The best way to find your teacher
is through recommendations and
conversations with people in the know.
Start withSurinder SinghatSwasti
Yoga Shala,Rishikesh’s most universally
adored teacher. His classes are old
school Hatha based in both Iyengar and
Kundalini. Don’t expect to move through
an array of quick transitions. Rather,
bask in the presence of someone who
commands a class while barely saying a
word. You will learn more about the
science of life and depths of yoga from
this man than the hundreds of teachers
before him.
For those who want to deepen
their understanding of alignment
and action, findAshish Sharma
teaching at theGreen Hotel.Although
the location is left of centre, the
information you’ll pick up about how to
perform postures will revolutionise your
practice after just a few classes. His style
is based on the Iyengar method, making
each class feel much like an alignment
workshop – you’ll work really hard but
in a different way to what you might at
home. Imagine sweating yourself stupid
while in Tadasana, or spending 40
minutes working on different ideas and
actions within Down Dog. Yoga Nerd
heaven!
You will either love or hate Usha
Devi at Omkarananda Ganga Sadan
Ashram. A long-time student of BKS
Iyengar and someone who used yoga to
recover from not one but two traumatic
road accidents, Usha has tremendous
knowledge of the Iyengar system and a
reputation for a blunt, no-nonsense
approach. Her sold-out classes and
intensives are full of adoring students
who hang off her every word, and the
discipline and focus in the room is truly
inspiring. You’ll work harder than you
ever thought possible whilst in the most
fundamental postures. It must be said
that Usha’s classes aren’t for everyone,
with some instantly turned off by what
they see as aggression in the practice.
But if you go in with an open mind and a
focused attitude, a week with Usha will
transform your practice forever.
Another local favourite is Yogi
Dinesh at Om Shanti Om Yoga. His
extensive travels have led him to work the
more traditional Rishikesh Hatha style
into a format that is more digestible.
His Hatha Vinyasa classes work with
mindfulness and long holds while
incorporating the movement and flow
that we are so used to in the west.
For those in need of an Ashtanga fix,
Rishikesh won’t disappoint. Kamal
Singh at Tattva Yoga is Rishikesh’s
most well known Ashtangi. His classes
and trainings are strong, hard and
uncompromising, taking a traditional
approach to the sequence, alignments
and adjustments. It’s not uncommon to
pick up a strain or sprain while practicing
Ashtanga in India, so take it easy!As a yogi and regular traveller, Stefan Camilleri is well
equipped to share his advice on getting the most from a
self-made spiritual journey to the motherland.Revelling in
RISHIKESH
95
january 2018yogajournal.com.au