the smells: from wild ginger and red chilli
to Bali lime and lemongrass, and the most
aromatic of all is Bali’s famous base genep
or thousand spice paste, which is rubbed
generously over so many of the island’s
favourite family dishes.
I begin the day with yin yoga at Dharma
Shanti Bale. The extended length of the
poses practiced in yin prove perfect for
observing early morning nature when the
sun lights up the rice paddy to an almost
fluorescent green and sunbirds flit down to
drink. There’s a full yoga programme to dip
in to, often hosted by visiting yoga masters,
from restorative hot stone (stones from
the Ayung river are placed on your body to
penetrate the muscles); to the innovative
anti-gravity yoga, with its ground-breaking
‘flying’ technique, using hammocks to
support posture, which at times doubled as
laughter therapy.
Nearby, the town of Ubud pulses with lifeand nowhere more so than its temples – part
place of worship, part village hall – they are
the hub of the community. It’s not unusual
to see both cremations and weddings
taking place on the same day as all aspects
of life, including death, are a cause for a
celebration. The town’s main thoroughfare,
Jalan Raya, throngs with day-trippers, lured
by its bohemian reputation. Need your chakra
balanced? No problem. Looking for some
crystal healing? You’re in the right place. The
place is chock full with meditation centres,
cultural centres (try your hand at batik
painting), healers and organic cafes. Pop in to
Threads of Life, a lovely home-wear store, full
of beautifully woven baskets, rugs and wraps
(look out for the Bali randangs – ceremonialom travel
“Four Seasons Resort
at Sayan, located on
the banks of the Ayung
River, is located just two-
kilometres from the town
of Ubud, considered
Bali’s cultural and
spiritual heart. ”^