cloths), whose proceeds support over 1,000
rural women weavers across Indonesia. At the
Tony Raka Gallery, you’ll find contemporary
work from local artists, tribal art (including
antique masks) and artefacts. There are
several independent yoga studios with
The Yoga Barn reaching legendary status,
with devotees booking classes months
in advance. I wasn’t that organised so I
caught a Breath of Awakening class at
the unpretentious Radiantly Alive, which
focused on honing my pranayama breathing
technique. Nearby, the lovely Pura Taman
Saraswati temple, where a pretty pond
overflows with lotus blossoms, is a lovely spot
for a moment of quiet contemplation.Change of pace
For a change in pace, a rafting excursion
along the sacred Ayung river, which cuts
a swathe through a deep ravine, is a thrill.om travel
The rapids are Class II and III, (nothing too
scary), and my guide gave out timely expert
advice, (“Oars to the right! And paddle!”), so
that there was no chance of being thrown
overboard. We float past shrines with holy
springs where blossom offerings have been
left; small plots of tended Marigolds (grown
to sell); coconut, durian and clove trees
(the pink petals from which fill the air); and
labourers transporting logs across the river,
waist high in the rushing water. It’s another
blissful opportunity to cut loose from the
crowds as we see just two other rafts in
three hours.Spa time
Slowing down again, I spend an idyllic
few hours tucked away in Four Seasons
Sacred River Spa – an award-winning
stunner, hidden away on the edge of the
resort with thatched private spa pavilionshugged by lush vegetation and surrounded
by lotus ponds. There are seven Chakra
Ceremonies to choose from and I book in for
the Muladhara, the grounding chakra that
focuses on the base of the spine, because
it’s perfect for those who travel frequently.
Among other rituals, I’m required to sit on a
kind of chimney and be cleansed by smoke- it’s far lovelier than it sounds – while I
enjoy a soothing massage using locally
grown ginger and cinnamon and watch the
iridescent green dragonflies swoop over the
lotus blooms.
These days you do have to choose wisely
in Bali if you want to have an Eat Pray Love
moment, but they’re still there if you know
where to look – cocooned in a hammock
by a rice-paddy; in the aroma of thousand
spice paste; on the rapids of the Ayung
river; and, perhaps most surprisingly,
sitting on a chimney.
FACT FILE:
Fly London Heathrow to Bali, with a short stop in Jakarta. Return
fares start at around £570. Go to: garuda-indonesia.comRates at Four Seasons Resort at Sayan start from £390 per suite
per night. Go to: fourseasons.com/sayanWorldmags.net