ZiNG Caribbean – May-June 2019

May - June 2019 | http://www.liat.com ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 51

the brook downstream for a hundred paces, we crossed
gingerly on rocks slippery as ice and hauled ourselves up
onto a trail that was more scramble than hike.
Perhaps we passed agoutis or iguanas – but then we
could have walked within inches of a T rex and I wouldn’t
have noticed, so testing was the climb. The rain had
eased, but the path was slick and muddy; it took all my
concentration and effort to haul myself up using roots
as handholds. Finally, though, we emerged into a clearing
where a metal pole, lugged up here by Miguel, marks
the uppermost of Gimie’s summits. “When it’s clear, you
can enjoy 360-degree views across the island from here,”
smiled Smith ruefully. Today, though, the clouds were
lingering, allowing just brief glimpses across the emerald
carpet swathing the centre of the island. Still, the sense
of achievement gave a warm glow, warding off the chill of
the wind that swept across the clearing.
As we retraced our steps down to the falls, the murk
cleared just long enough to reveal views of the island’s
most famous pinnacles through the foliage. And after
a celebratory Piton beer at the Rainforest Bar near the
end of the trail, I retreated to my characterful room at
the Fond Doux Plantation to plot my next move. This
stylish, verdant resort – a collection of historic wooden
plantation houses set in a lush cocoa plantation, with
two excellent restaurants – is an ideal base for hiking
adventures on St Lucia. Not only is it close to both
Soufrière and Fond Saint-Jacques for the Morne Gimie
trailhead, it’s also virtually next door to the Tet Paul
Nature Trail. So after sluicing off the mud from our ascent,
I scooted a mile or so up the road to Tet Paul.
Though it’s billed as a ‘trail’, there’s certainly more
‘nature’ than hiking here – the guided loop around what’s
essentially a community organic farm is no more than
about 1km. But with its restored traditional house packed

with vintage equipment – everything from a rustic coffee

grinder and antique sewing machine to a coconut grater –

giving insights into the lifestyles of previous generations,

and the guided tour revealing the medicinal uses of

various herbs and plants, it’s a fascinating way to spend

an hour or two. The highlight, though, is the viewpoint

perched high above Jalousie Plantation Beach, providing

jaw-dropping views of both Gros Piton and Petit Piton,

and back to the four dinosaur spines of Morne Gimie.

MISERY NO MORE

Peak one conquered, the next challenge beckoned on

St Kitts. Just over 200m higher than Gimie, Mt Liamuiga

is a different kind of peak: a snoozing volcano, its summit

actually the rim of an ancient crater. My St Lucia climb

had prepared me for steep, slippery trails – and just as

well. Fortunately, I couldn’t have been in safer hands (or,

more pertinently, feet): O’Neil Mulraine is possibly St

Kitt’s most experienced hiking guide, having led treks on

this mountain for 40 years.

We met straight after breakfast at Belle Mont Farm,

which is ideally placed for the climb – indeed, a branch

of the trail starts at the top of the property. And from

the moment we set out, O’Neil and his son, O’Neil Jr,

peppered our walk with morsels of local lore. “There are

around 400 species of tree in every acre of this forest,”

O’Neil told me, “which receives up to 85 inches of rain

each year.” Fortunately, the clouds stayed away, and the

path – though vertiginous in patches, with tree roots

acting as ladders on steeper stretches – was that bit

easier to traverse, allowing me to pay more attention to

the natural wonders all around. Pausing regularly, O’Neil

pointed out some of the highlights: touch-sensitive

mimosa leaves shrank away from our fingers; termites’

nests towered alongside the path; and plants of all

Above left: Buttress roots snake

across the trail on St Kitts

Above right: Explore Tet Paul

Nature Trail on St Lucia to wander

among vivid flowers

O’Neil pointed

out touch-

sensitive mimosa

leaves that

shrank away

from our fingers,

and termites’

nests towering

alongside the

path, amid

plants of all

different shades

of green –

gommier and

banyan, tree-

ferns, bromeliads

and club mosses,

huge mangoes

nearing a

century old