28 DIGITAL CAMERA^ DECEMBER 2019 http://www.digitalcameraworld.com
2
Tools and
screwdrivers
You’ll need a set of precise jeweller’s
screwdrivers so you can remove the tiny
screws that attach the rear lens mounting
plate to the lens. On this Olympus 50mm
f/1.8 Zuiko lens, there were just three screws
that needed removing to take the plate off.
I then proceeded to deconstruct the lens
to reveal the inner lens barrel.3
Bicycle inner tube
To stop light leaks, I connected
the lens to the camera body with
a bicycle inner tube, which is also flexible
enough to let you move the lens around to
find your sweet spot of focus. Cut a three-inch
section of the tube and wash it a few times
in warm water to remove any of the powdery
residue that’s usually on the inside of the
tube, as you don’t want this to get on your
lens or inside your camera body. Wait for it to
air-dry, or use a hairdryer to remove any water.4
T2 adapter for
camera mount
You’re going to need a way of
attaching your modified lens to the camera
body. I used a T2 camera mount adapter.
Just be sure to get the version that fits
your camera make and model. T2 adapters
are perfect because they are chunky enough
for you to wrap the bicycle inner tube around,
then lock it in place with a jubilee clamp.
They’re also very affordable, costing
about £5 from various websites.1
Old film lens
An old prime lens is perfect for the
job. They can be picked up relatively
cheaply: I paid just £15 for this Olympus 50mm
f/1.8 Zuiko because the front filter ring was
slightly damaged. Yet I could transform it
with a few modifications to get some amazing
freelensed results. Prime lenses for old film
cameras are ideal: they feature a physical
aperture ring, making it easy to change
the aperture when it’s not mounted to
the camera. Focal lengths of 35mm
and 50mm work brilliantly, too.