National Geographic Traveler - USA (2019-12 & 2020-01)

DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020 129

galvanized my resolve to return each year that ice conditions

allow to track the harp seals’ lives and connect others with these

creatures and their diminishing realm.

FAST FORWARD TO 2019. Mario Cyr called to cancel our boat

charter for our annual visit to the seal nursery—the fishing boats

were “iced in.” The silver lining: It was looking like a good year for

seals. The situation presented the perfect opportunity to finally

explore helicopter-based harp seal ecotourism. The Château

Madelinot, located on Cap aux Meules, the Magdalens’ main

island, operates helicopters that take travelers over the pack

ice during seal pup season, landing only if conditions are safe.

Which is how I find myself watching a pup nursing, as its

mother soaks up the warm sun. I eventually walk back toward the

helicopters. I see a girl sitting quietly next to a chubby whitecoat

that stares intently back at her. Other travelers I meet include a

couple on a Valentine’s Day date, a cancer patient, and a Japanese

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The world of the harp seal isn’t

just for professional photogra-

phers or extreme adventurers.

The Magdalen Islands are

accessible via air, boat, or a

ferry from Prince Edward Island.

HOW TO GET THERE

Flights to Cap aux Meules, the

main island in the Magdalens,

are less dependent on sea ice

conditions but of course are

more expensive than the ferry.

Air Canada Express operates

flights from Montréal, Québec

City, and Gaspé. Pascan Airline

is a local option often booked

by islanders.

CTMA runs year-round ferry

service from the port town

of Souris on Prince Edward

Island to Cap aux Meules. The

journey takes about five hours.

traversierctma.ca

THINGS TO DO

Madelinots are as versatile as

they are kind and spirited. The

winter is a perfect time for a

conversation around a fire, with

a craft beer in hand.

Winter activities also include

cross-country skiing, ice sailing,

or snow kiting. Hike the islands’

signature, red-sandstone cliffs

year-round, maybe accom-

panied with a picnic of local

cheeses, smoked herring,

and artisan breads. Mid-Lent

celebrations are a beloved and

generations-old tradition in

the Magdalens, full of music,

costumes, and merrymaking.

tourismeilesdelamadeleine

.com/en/discover-the-islands/

HOW TO SEE THE SEAL PUPS

Liveaboard Boat

The Magdalen Islands are one

of the only places on the planet

allowing snorkeling and diving

access to the secret world of

the harp seal. A boat-based ice

safari offers the luxury of time

with the harp seals above and

below the sea ice.

Charters are generally avail-

able from late February through

early March. Expeditions last an

average of six days.

The ice-capable fishing boats

offer basic expedition-style

accommodations: communal

bunk space, galley, shared

toilet, and local cuisine.

Liveaboard boat expeditions

are subject to the uncertainty

of ice conditions, but they

offer advantages not provided

by daylight helicopter access:

unlimited time and light on the

sea ice to experience sunrise,

sunset, and twilight; diving and

snorkeling in the sea ice with

harp seals; encounters with

other species that live on the

Travel Wise: Magdalen Islands

199

199

10 mi

10 km

Magdalen Islands/

Prince Edward Island ferry

ÎLES DE LA

MADELEINE AIRPORT

Gulf of

St. Lawrence

Pleasant

Bay

Havre-aux-Maisons

Cap-aux-Meules

Havre-Aubert

Bassin

Îles de la Madeleine

(Magdalen Islands)

Île du Havre aux Maisons

Île de la

Île aux Loups Grande Entrée

Île Brion

La Grosse Île

Île du

Havre Aubert

Île du Cap

aux Meules

Île d’Entrée

photographer and guide celebrating his 30th year with the seals.

There’s the young lady who brought her toy seal from childhood,

and a twentysomething man from Kingston, Ontario, who slept

in his car and ate canned goods after spending his last dollar

for the final helicopter ride of the season. Passion and curiosity

brought them all here to learn, grow, and heal.

Before my snorkeling encounter with the protective mother

and her pup, I was a skeptic about human-wildlife interactions.

But I now accept that sometimes things happen when we least

expect it. Biologists can point out why a testosterone-fueled

male seal was compelled to challenge me while I was swimming

with his potential mate. But they cannot easily explain why a

mother seal would push me to safety with her pup. I don’t need

explanations, I just embrace it.

JENNIFER HAYES ( @jenniferhayesig) is a marine biologist

turned contributing photographer for National Geographic.

ice pack; going to sleep with

the sounds of the harp seal

nursery echoing across the ice.

Contact Mario Cyr, a lifelong

Madelinot, diver, photographer,

filmmaker, and expedition

guide: aquanautes.com/en/

catalog/adventure/harp-seal-

discovery

Day Excursion via Helicopter

Hotel Madelinot offers small-

group excursions via helicopter

to search for the seal herd on

the ice pack. Before heading

out, participants are briefed

on harp seal biology, etiquette,

and safety on the ice. Helicop-

ters set down a safe distance

away from the herd, and guests

get out to explore the nursery.

The experience lasts about

three hours and is ice- and

weather-dependent. hotels

accents.com/en/observations-

des-blanchons