National Geographic Traveler - USA (2019-12 & 2020-01)

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CRUISE LA MADDALENA

For even more water-based

wanderings, head to the

top of Sardinia and

Maddalena Archipelago

National Park. A sprinkling

of islands and islets

known for gentle winds

and peach-hued rock

formations cupping hidden

coves, the archipelago

invites exploration by boat.

Day cruises with outfitters

such as Fil Rouge Sail and

BluAlghero drift from island

to island, offering an anti-

dote to the crowds along

the paparazzi-filled Costa

Smeralda just a few miles

south. Here, the focus is

on peaceful sails, swims,

and strolls. Be sure to

chart a course for Caprera

island, home to forests of

umbrella pines, colonies

of swooping seabirds,

and some of the loveliest

beaches in Sardinia.

PADDLE THE CEDRINO RIVER

A blue ribbon threading

through Sardinia’s

Supramonte Mountains,

the 50-mile Cedrino River

flows between limestone

and basalt structures

before emptying into

the Gulf of Orosei. If you

rent a kayak from a local

outfitter and float on the

river’s glassy surface,

surrounding mountain

peaks seem like a separate

realm. But the spring at

Su Gologone, where fresh

water surges out of a

narrow ravine, hints at the

karst system associated

with underground streams,

lakes, and caves below the

Supramonte range. Canoe

excursions organized by

the boutique Su Gologone

Experience Hotel start at

the spring, continue onto

the Cedrino River, and

finish at Cedrino Lake.

HIKE THE SELVAGGIO BLU

One of Italy’s most

challenging and beautiful

treks, the 25-mile “Wild

Blue” traces the coast

along the National Park

of the Gulf of Orosei and

Gennargentu. From Cala

Luna south to Santa

Maria Navarrese, the

route traverses blindingly

white calcareous cliffs

that soar more than 2,500

feet above the sapphire

waters below. Be prepared

for a heart-pumping mix

of hiking, climbing, and

rappelling on narrow paths

first forged by goat-tending

shepherds, then by mules

and workers who came to

Sardinia to produce char-

coal from the oak trees.

Along the way, discover

valleys leading to protected

coves that are perfect for

a swim to refresh both

body and mind.

Left: Intriguing sites in

northeastern Sardinia

include the Giant’s

Grave of Coddu Vecchiu,

a Nuragic tomb near

Arzachena built by a

Bronze Age civilization.

Far left: The Tyrrhenian

Sea forms a deep blue

backdrop as a climber

ascends a limestone

tower at Cala Goloritzé,

on Sardinia’s east coast.

DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

200 mi

200200 km km

Sardinia RomeRome

ITALY

Medit. (^) Sea