Time International - 25.11.2019

(Jeff_L) #1
Time November 25, 2019

COOKING FOR


CAMBODIA


NITE YUN | 37


By Samin Nosrat


My favorite dish at Nyum Bai, chef


Nite Yun’s Oakland, Calif., restaurant,


which opened in 2018, is a pile of


shredded cabbage, vegetables, herbs


and poached chicken on a plate.


It’s deceptively simple-looking, but


upon first bite, the layers of flavor


and texture begin to unfold. First,


a wave of salt and umami from the


fish sauce hits, then sweetness. Next


comes crunch from the cabbage and


peanuts, a floral burst of air from the


Thai basil, and finally, a satisfying


smack of acid from rice vinegar and


lime. It’s a revelation.


To anyone who’s not familiar

with her, Nite might seem similarly


understated. At first glance, she’s just


cooking the food of her homeland


in her tiny restaurant a stone’s


throw from the BART tracks. But


for some Americans, a mention of


Cambodia brings to mind little more


than violence and genocide. For


Nite, cooking is a way to tell another


story about Cambodia—about its


beautiful culture, resilient people


and unbelievably delicious cuisine.


And people are listening. In the past


two years, she and Nyum Bai have


been honored by just about every


food publication in the country. But


more importantly, she is changing


America’s relationship to Cambodia,


one exquisite dish at a time.


Nosrat is a chef, author and host of


Netflix’s Salt Fat Acid Heat


FAST FACTS


BEST KNOWN AS


CHEF AND OWNER


OF CAMBODIAN


RESTAURANT NYUM


BAI IN OAKLAND,


CALIF.; ITS NAME


MEANS “LET’S EAT”


BIGGEST


RECOGNITION


JAMES BEARD


AWARD


SEMIFINALIST, BEST


NEW RESTAURANT;


THE $50,000


VILCEK PRIZE FOR


CREATIVE PROMISE


IN CULINARY ARTS


72

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