Harper\'s bazaar Malysia September 2018

(Joyce) #1

44 HARPER’S BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2018


Editor’s
LET TER

LANVIN DRESS; FENDI EARRING; AND HERM

ÈS CUFF, ALL NATASHA’S OW

PHOTOGRAPHY AND HAIR: ALBERT NICO. STYLING AND MAKE-UP: ORSON LIYU

t’s not revolutionary, this idea of diversity in fashion, not even when
the  rst hijabi Halima Aden walked the runway at NYFW last year, or
way back Spring/Summer 14 when Rick Owens ran the whole gamut of
age, race, and size at his show—those knee-high leather sneakers being the
only commonality among his “models”. John Galliano widened the cultural
spectrum in haute couture circa 1997 with his spectacular Dior-ama of Maasai
queens, Navajo goddesses, sexy geishas, and Ling Tan, a sublime vision of chinoiserie
chic (I really miss his genius as I write this). Even that was not breaking news.  e very
concept of fashion is meant to be contrarian, ignited at the turn of the 20th century when
Paul Poiret dressed women in harem pants and sultana skirts to break away from the diktats
of traditional French court styles; through to Yves Saint Laurent who pioneered having black
models on the runway as early as the 60s, and insisted on Naomi Campbell for the August 1988
cover of Vogue Paris, their  rst-ever black cover model. And on the streets, isn’t the spirit always
United Colours? So why does fashion often backtrack to the whitewashing and one-sizing?
 ere is an entire season-to-season ‘Diversity Report’ by  eFashionSpot.com that analyses
runway and ad campaigns, through New York, London, Paris, and Milan, even breaking them
down into infographics, should you care enough. While this whistleblowing is necessary, it’s ironic
how fashion, a form of social discourse, has auto-corrected itself to the extreme with its rainbow
spectacle of geeks and freaks (and cyborgs!) this season. Alternative, anarchic, ugly are no longer
at the fringes or teetering cutting-edge. It’s as mainstream as Gucci. Forget fashion in its rhetorical
sense—a manner collectively embraced in numbers—but it being a democracy towards self-
identi cation or creative characterisation, from daring dressing to audacious make-up
and all the so-called imperfections that not only make us real, but really stand out.
BAZAAR’s take on diversity in this issue goes beyond the surface of what
it means to be di erent, and into state-of-being. Paris Jackson opens the
dialogue with her “black-or-white” beauty and unconventional way of
life you would expect as the daughter of Michael Jackson. Activist,
bohemian, bisexual ... I would avoid the labels, for “person” is the
very point of inclusivity in the 21st century. With that, we present
myriad faces and facets of a brave new world—cue our most radical
beauty shoot yet (page 176); Deborah Henry on her 24 hours with her
Fugee School (page 144); the new ugly (page 164); and dahling Edna
Mode on her style edicts (page 160).  en Carine Roitfeld, globa
fashion director of BAZAAR, rounds up a Rock & Roll Hall of Fame
of famous stars and their o spring, in a Autumn/Winter 18 collections
portfolio that ri s high on individuality.
Last word: this editor’s note was photographed by Harper’s BAZAAR’s
Best Hairstylist of 2018, Albert Nico, who in recent years has discovered
a passion for photography, capturing interesting street life around the
world with his little Ricoh.  is month he launches his  rst photography
book  e Soul Of Portraits, in aid of the children’s charity Give Malaysia,
featuring “the new Malaysians of a new Malaysia”, a beautiful prism of
true diversity.

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g oui i

Watch,
Chanel

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Natasha Kraal
of traditional French court styles; through to Yves Saint Laurent who pioneered having black
models on the runway as early as the 60s, and insisted on Naomi Campbell for the August 1988


OVVVV


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Ring, Bulgari

Bag, Louis VuittonBag, Louis Vuitton

S CUFF, ALL NATASHA’S OWN.

myriad faces and facets of a brave new world—cue our most radical
beauty shoot yet (page 176); Deborah Henry on her 24 hours with her
Edna
Mode on her style edicts (page 160).  en Carine Roitfeld, global
, rounds up a Rock & Roll Hall of Fame
of famous stars and their o spring, in a Autumn/Winter 18 collections
Watch,
Free download pdf