42 November 2019_Esquire photograph: Jeffrey Westbrook
the Big BiteD RINKS
NEW FIZZ ON
THE BLOCK
There seems to be an endless
torrent of spiked seltzers
these days. So we enlisted the
coolest sommelier we
know to choose the best.How do you choose a favorite spiked seltzer, an in-
nocuously flavored low-carb beverage? “It’s as hard
as choosing the best dictator,” says Victoria James, who
in 2012, at the age of 21, became America’s youngest
sommelier and is now beverage director of Cote in New
York City. “I grew up with white zinfandel and Zima,”
she admits. “No one’s first taste of blues is like Grand
Cru Burgundy.” So in the meantime, there’s always
White Claw. We asked James to taste-test about three
dozen flavors of spiked seltzers. Here are her favorites.
White Claw Natural Lime
In the world of spiked seltzer, Claw is king. And of the
brand’s six varieties, there was one clear winner. “Lime
was the least intrusive,” James says. “It has an almost
Gatorade-like aftertaste. And that initial rubbery smell
is nostalgic—like the ball pit at McDonald’s.”
Crook & Marker Tangerine
At first, coconut pineapple was the front-runner, only
to be beaten out by tangerine. “It’s an alternative to
orange soda but a little healthier.”
Wild Basin Melon Basil
Made by Oskar Blues, a brewery best known for some
very stellar beers. “Most spiked seltzers taste like ar-
tificial fruit bombs, but this has a weird savory ele-
ment, like peanut or sesame oil. This would be great
with pad thai.”Truly Orange
“I love that Emergen-C smell, because I associate it
with something that I drink after a hangover that will
make me well.”Lifted Libations Grapefruit Vodka Soda
Okay, we’re sort of cheating here. This isn’t a spiked
seltzer but rather a canned vodka soda. “This is bet-
ter, as it’s a pure distillate and soda and still only has
96 calories. It has a vodka aftertaste, but I almost pre-
fer that, because it’s the enemy you know.” Tr ay by Hermès.