November 2019_Esquire 83Watches of the YearTUDOR BLACK BAY P01
The Tudor Black Bay P01 is a watch that never
was. Till now, that is. Developed in 1967 in response
to exacting new specifications from the U.S.
Navy, the P01 was intended as an update to the
classic Prince Submariner that Tudor had
made since the 1950 s. The P01 had notable new
features, like the winding crown at four o’clock
and a locking system for the rotating bezel. But when
the Navy opted instead for another Tudor dive watch,
the Commando, as the P01 was code-named,
was consigned to a Tudor filing cabinet. Until this
year. $3,950; tudorwatch.comT
hink of a great dealer as your
infallible guide to the un-
known reaches of the watch
world: your Sacajawea, your
Virgil. Great dealers, like James
Lamdin of New York’s Analog
Shift, can direct the most aimless
novice to a watch he’ll love—they
can even bid for you at auctions to
ensure you get a good price. But
what dealers really excel at is work-
ing for the man who knows exactly
what he wants—and the more ex-
actly, the better. “On my first day
of business,” says Lamdin, a cli-
ent said, “ ‘I’m looking for this vin-
tage Omega. Here’s a picture of my
brother’s; the matching one was
lost. Can you help?’ ” He delivered
it a year later. A lifetime of work
goes into that knowledge base,
such that a dealer knows what’s
out there and maybe even the pri-
vate collection in which a particular
make and model might be found.
And for all that tireless scouring,
Lamdin says his commissions are
flexible: “I don’t charge a standard
fee, but you can also pay me in a
good bottle of single malt.” —D. T.Take Me
to Your Dealer
WANT RARE?
WE’VE GOT A GUY
FOR THAT.Bulova
Computron,
$395
Inspired by one
of Bulova’s designs
from the 197 0 s.
Citizen
Brycen, $295
It’s all about the
burnt-orange face.Fossil Neutra
Chronograph,
$145
The rose-gold-tone case
and the green straps are
a killer combo.Casio
Vintage, $75
The classic
digital watch done
up in gold.4