2019-11-01 delicious

THERE’SANENERGYand
enthusiasmtoa special
restaurant– somethingthat
hitsyouthemomentyou
stepthroughthedoor.In
thisinstance,thatdooris barn-style,and
is openedbya grinningDashRumblewho,
alongwithRossMcQuinn,co-ownsPilot.
The30-seateris a sophisticatedlocalin
thesuburbofAinslie,ACT,andis thefirst
(hencethenamePilot.,likea pilotTV
show)fortheyoungguns,withsharp-
shooterMalcolmHanslowin thekitchen.
Uponentry,there’sa humofdiners
tuckingin,thetheatreofcalm,confident
trifectaofchefsworkingthepansin the
openkitchen,anda mixofpride,warmth
andgenuinehospitalityonthefloor,too.
Theroomis smartlydecoratedandbrims
withyouthfulexuberance,spring-boarded
fromthefoundationofCVsthatboast
MomofukuSeiobo,Ester,Automata,
OscillateWildlyandCanberra’seightysix.
Butit’snotbravado,rathera reassurance
thatyou’reexperiencingsomething special
and,dareI say,Australian.
Thewinelistmeandersthroughyoung
andoldAustraliandrops,theserviceis
seamless,andthebeliefin thefoodis
evidentin theearnestnessofitsdelivery.
ItseemsHanslowhasa habitoftaking
familiar concepts and rocketing them to

dizzyingheights.It’srefined,considered

cookerythat’spreciseanddelicious.

Whatis listedas‘potatosalad’,for

instance,is farfromsimple.A rich,creamy

andwarmingpotatopureetakesa turn

towardsa Waldorfsaladwithradishes,

celeryandcompressedapple.It’sa silky,

refreshingandwarmingmouthful.

‘Cabbagee pepe’,anumami-ladenspin

oncacioe pepe,seeshouse-made

roastedbuckwheatnoodleslatheredin

a butterycabbagesaucefuelledupon

parmesanandblackpepper.It’soneof

themostdeliciousthingsI’veeaten.

Soft,steamedMurraycodarriveswith

a ginger-and-shallotensembleatop,

anda sweet-and-sourpuddlebeneath.

Then‘lambkebab’silencesthetablewith

a trioofplates– onewithsmokedtahini

andbraisedlambshoulder,anotherwith

thick,buttery,roti-styleflatbreadandthe

last,a parsleyandchickpeasalad.

Finishwitha smartrenditionofthe

go-tosuburbandessertViennettaand

you’llbewonderinghowa little

restaurantin a quietsuburbofCanberra

iscurrentlyoneofourbest.I havea

sensethatPilot.is notjusta first

restaurantforRumbleandMcQuinn,

buta firstforusall,witha wonderful

optimismforwherecontemporary

Australian is headed.

Itmaysitonthecornerofa shoppingstrip,betweenrowsofhouses,

butthere’snothingsuburbanaboutPilot.,writesAnthonyHuckstep,

who says it’s first class all the way for this new, mod-Oz restaurant.

IN FULL FLIGHT

@huckstergram @anthuckstep

For more of our critics’ dining picks.

REVIEWEDONLINETHISMONTH

PrinceofYork,SydneyCBD

LeRebelle,MountLawley,Perth

BinchoBoss,MelbourneCBD

The Alcott, Lane Cove, NSW

PILOT. RESTAURANT & BAR

CUISINE

Contemporary

CHEF

MalcolmHanslow

VISIT

Shop 1WakefieldGardens,Ainslie, ACT

OPENINGHOURS

WednesdaytoSaturday,6pm-late

Sunday,12pm-3pm

BOOKINGS

pilotrestaurant.com

PRICE

$$$$

BYO

No

delicious.com.au

BOOKA

TABLENOWAT

FOOD AND PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY

ASHLEY ST GEORGE

PHOTOGRAPHY

LEAN TIMMS

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