WEST VIRGINIA
SWEET ON SQUASH
West Virginia is the only state located
entirely within the Appalachian Moun-
tains. With the brief May-to-September
growing season there, sturdy crops are
welcomed and cherished by cooks and
gardeners, particularly produce selections
that stand up to frost and keep well into
the colder months.
In her award-winning book, Victuals:
An Appalachian Journey, with Recipes,
Ronni Lundy celebrates the foodways
of the Mountain South, writing: “In the
mountains, affection is keen for winter
squash varieties not commonly found
elsewhere.” One particular kind worth
seeking out is the orange-skinned Candy
Roaster. Lundy describes its marvelous
sweet taste and “creamy textured flesh
that is more akin to a sweet potato than
a pumpkin.”
A simple stunner for your spread,
this roasted squash is topped with two
West Virginia staples: black walnuts and
sorghum syrup. (The cranberries aren’t
native, but given the occasion, they add
a vibrant and festive note.) Butternut
squash makes an excellent substitute
in this dish if the lovely Candy Roaster
isn’t an option.
Candy Roaster Squash with
Sorghum, Black Walnuts,
and Cranberries
ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 45 MIN.
SERVES 6|
1 2 1/2- to 3-lb. Candy Roaster
squash or butternut squash
2 Tbsp. olive oil
3/4 tsp. black pepper
1 1/4 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup sorghum syrup
1 cup toasted black walnuts
1/2 cup chopped dried cranberries
- Preheat oven to 400°F. Line 2 large
baking sheets with aluminum foil. Peel
squash, halve lengthwise, and trim ends.
Remove and discard seeds. Cut squash
into about 3/4-inch-thick wedges. Place in
a large bowl; toss with oil, pepper, and 1
teaspoon of the salt. Arrange in a single
layer on prepared baking sheets (do not
overcrowd). Bake until golden and tender,
about 35 minutes, gently turning squash
halfway through cook time.- While squash bakes, melt butter in a
small saucepan over medium until bubbly,
swirling pan occasionally to help butter
melt evenly. Once butter mostly stops
bubbling and has started to brown, remove
pan from heat. Whisk in sorghum and
remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cover and
set aside to keep warm. - Transfer squash to a serving platter.
Pour half of the sorghum mixture over
squash; pour remaining sorghum mix-
ture into a small serving bowl or pitcher.
Sprinkle squash with toasted walnuts and
cranberries. Serve hot or warm alongside
additional remaining sorghum mixture.
ALABAMA
EUGENE’S GREENS
Alabama was home to Eugene Walter,
who spent his life observing Southern
food and culture and wrote with passion
about the cooks, recipes, and culinary
traditions of his beloved region. A prolific
artist, poet, novelist, editor, and bon vivant,
he spent decades living in New York,
Paris, and Rome before returning home
to Mobile in 1979.
Walter’s respect and affection for
greens shines forth in his masterpiece,
American Cooking: Southern Style,
an essential volume in the Foods of the
World series from Time-Life Books. In
another classic cookbook, The Happy
Table of Eugene Walter: Southern
Spirits in Food and Drink, he offered
two recipes: Wednesday Greens and
Sunday Greens, one plain and the other
fancy. He inspired our version with his
mention of sippets, a British take on
croutons. Sippets are tidbits of stale
bread that are fried with cloves of garlic.
Finish with a splash of red wine vinegaras well as Walter’s beloved freshly
ground pepper.Collard Greens with Garlic
and Sippets
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 30 MIN.
SERVES 6|1 Tbsp., plus 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 (1-lb.) pkg. chopped fresh collard
greens (about 8 cups)
2/3 cup pure olive oil
1/3 cup sliced garlic (from 1 large garlic
head)
2 cups torn sourdough bread pieces
(about 1 inch each; from 4 oz.
bread)
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. black pepper- Place 3 quarts water in a large stockpot;
bring to a rolling boil over high, and add 1
tablespoon of the salt. Add collard greens.
Cook, stirring occasionally, until greens are
tender but still have a fresh green color,
10 to 12 minutes. Drain; return greens to
stockpot. - While greens cook, heat oil in a medium-
size heavy skillet over medium. Add 1 garlic
slice to oil. Once it sizzles, add remaining
garlic slices. Cook, stirring occasionally,
until garlic is lightly and evenly browned
and aromatic, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from
heat. Transfer garlic to a plate using a
slotted spoon, and set aside; reserve garlic-
infused oil in skillet. - Heat garlic-infused oil over medium-
high. Add 1 bread piece to oil; once bread
sizzles, add remaining bread in a single
layer. (If needed, work in batches to avoid
overcrowding the skillet.) Cook, undis-
turbed, until golden and crisp on 1 side,
about 2 minutes. Turn bread pieces. Cook,
undisturbed, until just golden brown on
other side, about 1 minute. Using a slotted
spoon, transfer bread to a plate lined
with paper towels. Repeat process with
remaining bread. - To serve, pour warm garlic-infused oil
over greens in stockpot; toss to coat. Add
vinegar, pepper, half of the reserved garlic
slices (reserve the remaining slices for
another use), bread pieces, and remaining
1 teaspoon salt; toss gently. Transfer to
a serving platter; serve warm.