Smithsonian Magazine - 11.2019

November 2019 | SMITHSONIAN.COM 61

and ribs, though the term implies an equality that doesn’t exist: Bris-

ket is forever king. He also started experimenting with creations like

beef belly burnt ends glazed with Korean gochujang chili paste and

ricey links of boudin sausage laced with Thai curry. In Houstonia

magazine, J.C. Reid, who would go on to be the Houston Chronicle’s

barbecue columnist (a real job), praised “Hoang’s creativity, which

isn’t hampered by preconceived notions of what barbecue should

be.” After several years, the men thought about turning their hobby

into a real business.

It’s a common narrative in barbecue, this passage from amateur-

ism to entrepreneurship. Barbecue is a deep craft, but

a narrow one. The barriers to entry are low; the equip-

ment and ingredients relatively inexpensive. Given suf-

fi cient obsession and eff ort, excellence is within reach.

Also, the Blood Bros quickly learned, nearly every-

body likes to eat it.

BLOOD BROS OPENED its brick-and-mortar doors last December, on

a morning when the temperature may have read in the high 50s, but

the damp Gulf wind whipping across the Bellaire parking lot made

it feel much colder. By 10 a.m., an hour before opening, there was

already a small band of hungry barbecue hounds taking shelter in

the recessed entryway. Those who arrived after that had no such

recourse, as the line stretched out along the sidewalk.

Lining up in inclement weather is part of barbecue culture, though

“WE DON’T WANT IT TO BE ‘OH, THOSE ARE THE

ASIAN GUYS.’ ” IT’S A DEBATE: JUST HOW “ASIAN”

DO THEY WANT THEIR BARBECUE TO BE?

Over the past
year, the Blood
Bros have begun
enhancing dish-
es like sausage,
ribs and smoked
turkey with
ingredients like
kimchi, daikon
and curry paste.