2019-11-01 Food & Wine USA

(Tina Meador) #1

104 NOVEMBER 2019


2 lb. haricots verts (French green
beans), trimmed
1 cup roughly chopped raw hazelnuts
3 Tbsp. chopped garlic (about 8 garlic
cloves)
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon
1 Tbsp. kosher salt

(^3) / 4 tsp. black pepper
Heat a large, high-sided skillet over
medium-high. Add beef fat, and heat
until shimmering, about 2 minutes. Add
haricots verts, and cook, stirring often,
until bright green, about 4 minutes. Add
hazelnuts, garlic, and butter, and cook,
stirring often, until hazelnuts are toasted
and haricots verts are crisp-tender, 4 to 6
minutes. Remove from heat; stir in lemon
juice, tarragon, salt, and black pepper.
Ser ve immediately.
NOTE To make^1 / 2 cup of rendered beef
fat, gently heat 8 ounces of beef trim-
mings in a small saucepan over medium-
low for 1 hour. Strain the rendered fat
before using.
Duck Liver Pâté with
Blackberry Conserva
PHOTO AT RIGHT
TOTAL 1 HR 20 MIN, PLUS 6 HR
REFRIGERATION
SERVES 8
Tart blackberries and a generous splash of
Champagne brighten up the silky liver
pâté. Make the pâté and conserva several
days ahead and keep chilled. For smooth,
spreadable pâté, let it stand at room tem-
perature for 30 minutes before serving.
Spoon any leftover conserva on pancakes,
waffles, or ice cream.
DUCK LIVER PÂTÉ
14 oz. duck livers (about 1^1 / 4 cups)
1 Tbsp. plus^1 / 4 tsp. kosher salt,
divided
(^1) / 2 cup plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter (5
oz.)
1 medium-size yellow onion, thinly
sliced
10 fresh sage leaves
(^1) / 3 cup Champagne or dry white wine
(^1) / 3 cup duck fat, melted
BLACKBERRY CONSERVA
2 lb. fresh or frozen blackberries
5 Tbsp. granulated sugar
2 Tbsp. water
4 thyme sprigs
3 whole cloves
(^1) / (^8) tsp. kosher salt
Pinch of black pepper
Grilled bread slices and whole-grain
mustard, for serving



  1. Make the duck liver pâté: Stir together
    livers and^1 / 4 teaspoon salt in a medium
    bowl; set aside.

  2. Melt butter in a large skillet over
    medium. Add onion, and cook, stirring
    occasionally, until softened and translu-
    cent but not browned, about 10 minutes.
    Transfer onion mixture to bowl of a food
    processor. Add livers to skillet, and cook
    over medium until bright pink all the way
    through, 1 minute to 1 minute and 30 sec-
    onds per side. Add sage, and cook until
    fragrant, about 15 seconds. Remove skil-
    let from heat; stir in Champagne. Let
    stand 5 minutes.

  3. Transfer liver mixture to food processor
    with onion mixture. Process until smooth
    and silky, about 2 minutes, stopping to
    scrape down sides as needed. Add remain-
    ing 1 tablespoon salt. Process until incor-
    porated, about 10 seconds. Using a rubber
    spatula, press liver mixture through a fine
    wire-mesh strainer into a bowl; discard sol-
    ids. Transfer pureed liver mixture to a large
    (20- to 24-ounce) terrine mold or ramekin
    or 2 smaller (10- to 12-ounce) ramekins.
    Smooth top, and tap ramekin
    on counter a few times to remove any air
    bubbles. Cover pâté with melted duck fat
    (a b o u t^1 / 4 inch thick), and chill, uncovered,
    until set, at least 6 hours or up to 2 days.

  4. While pâté chills, make the black-
    berry conserva: Combine blackberries,
    sugar, and 2 tablespoons water in a large
    saucepan. Wrap thyme and cloves in cheese-
    cloth, and tie ends to make a sachet. Add
    sachet to blackberry mixture. Bring to a
    boil over medium-high, stirring often.
    Reduce heat to medium-low; cook, stirring
    often, until blackberries break down and
    mixture has thickened and reduced to
    about 2 cups, 30 to 40 minutes.

  5. Remove from heat. Remove and discard
    sachet. Stir in salt and pepper. Transfer
    blackberry mixture to a shallow bowl, and
    spread out to cool. Immediately transfer to
    refrigerator, and chill, uncovered, 2 hours
    to preserve vibrant color. Transfer black-
    berry conserva to an airtight container,
    and chill at least 2 hours or up to 3 days.

  6. Remove pâté from refrigerator 30 min-
    utes before serving. Serve pâté with
    blackberry conserva, grilled crusty bread,
    and whole-grain mustard.
    MAKE AHEAD Duck liver pâté can be made
    up to 2 days in advance; blackberry
    conserva can be made 3 days in advance.
    WINE Robust but elegant rosé
    Champagne: NV Charles Heidsieck Rosé


and allowing steaks to become infused
with smoke flavor, about 15 minutes.
Remove steaks from grill, and sprinkle all
sides with 3 tablespoons kosher salt. Let
stand at room temperature 30 minutes.


  1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Heat a large
    cast-iron skillet over high. Add olive oil,
    tilting skillet to evenly coat bottom. Add
    steaks, and cook, undisturbed, 2 minutes.
    Flip and cook, undisturbed, 2 minutes.
    Use tongs to turn steaks upright to sear
    fat cap and bone. Continue to cook
    steaks, flipping and turning every minute,
    until a golden-brown crust develops on
    both sides and on edges of fat cap, 6 to 8
    minutes. Transfer skillet with steaks to
    preheated oven, and cook until a ther-
    mometer inserted in thickest portion of
    steak registers 110°F, about 10 minutes.
    Remove steaks from skillet, and let rest
    on a wire rack 12 minutes.

  2. Meanwhile, pour off drippings from
    skillet (save for Garlicky Haricots Verts
    with Hazelnuts [recipe follows], if
    desired). Heat skillet over medium-high.
    Add wine reduction, and bring to a sim-
    mer, stirring and scraping up any
    browned bits from bottom of skillet. Add
    demi-glace and, if using, escargot, and
    cook, stirring constantly, until demi-glace
    is incorporated and escargot is heated
    through, about 1 minute. Remove from
    heat, and gradually stir in 6 tablespoons
    truffle butter, 2 pieces at a time, allowing
    butter to emulsify after each addition. Stir
    in parsley, pepper, and remaining^3 / 4 tea-
    spoon kosher salt.

  3. Slice steaks, and arrange on a serving
    platter. Sprinkle steaks evenly with sea
    salt, top with remaining 2 tablespoons
    truffle butter, and serve with Burgundy-
    truffle sauce.
    MAKE AHEAD Wine reduction may be
    prepared through Step 1 up to 1 week
    ahead. Let cool, cover, and refrigerate
    until ready to use.
    WINE Powerful, firmly tannic Burgundy:
    2016 Bouchard Père & Fils Pommard
    NOTE Dry-aged rib eyes are available at
    shop.lafrieda.com.


Garlicky Haricots Verts
with Hazelnuts
PHOTO P. 103
TOTAL 20 MIN; SERVES 8

The fat left over from searing Pat LaFrieda’s
rib eyes is liquid gold; here, chef Angie
Mar uses it to transform green beans into
a rich and elegant side dish studded with
hazelnuts, garlic, and tarragon.

(^1) / 4 cup rendered beef fat or unsalted
butter PHOTOGRAPHY (TOP LEFT, BOTTOM LEFT): VICTOR PROTASIO; FOOD STYLING: CYD MCDOWELL; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLENPHOTOGRAPHY (TOP RIGHT, BOTTOM RIGHT): WILLIAM HEREFORD; FOOD STYLING: GORDON SAWYER; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

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