106 NOVEMBER 2019
liquid is reduced by half, 12 to 15 minutes.
Add drained beans, potatoes, and duck
stock. Bring to a boil over high. Reduce
heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer,
stirring occasionally, until duck legs are
tender and cooked through and beans
and potatoes are tender, about 2 hours.- Remove and discard thyme bundle and
bay leaves. Transfer 3 cups bean mixture
to a medium bowl. Using a fork or potato
masher, mash mixture until mostly
smooth. Stir bean mixture back into stew.
Stir in remaining 1^1 / 2 tablespoons salt.
Cook over medium-low, uncovered, stir-
ring occasionally, until stew is slightly
thickened, about 15 minutes. Stir in kale
during last 2 minutes of cooking. Serve
with toasted baguette slices.
MAKE AHEAD Stew can be prepared 3
days ahead through Step 3; let cool,
cover, and refrigerate. Reheat gently
before proceeding.
WINE E ar thy, complex Sangiovese: 2015
Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico
Riserva
NOTE Soak the beans and season the
duck legs the night before. Purchase fresh
duck legs from dartagnan.com.
Smoked Duck Breasts with
Apple-Brandy Caramel
PHOTO P. 101
ACTIVE 2 HR 10 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 35 MIN,
PLUS 8 HR REFRIGERATION; SERVES 4 TO 6Seek out small, 2-inch-wide apples (often
sold as “kid’s snack apples”) for this rec-
ipe; they will be perfectly tender by the
time the caramel thickens and turns deep
amber in color. Cold smoking the duck
breast adds an extra layer of flavor; for a
quicker preparation, skip smoking the
ducks, and score and sear as directed.2 (15-oz.) skin-on duck breasts (such
as Moulard)
11 / 2 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided
2 Tbsp. duck fat or unsalted butter
11 / 2 lb. small Gala apples(^1) / 4 cup unsalted butter
1 cup granulated sugar
3 cups duck or chicken stock
2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) brandy
8 winter savory or thyme sprigs
- Using a sharp knife, score duck skin in a
crosshatch pattern at^3 / 4 -inch intervals,
about^1 / 8 inch deep (being careful to avoid
cutting into meat). Sprinkle duck breasts
with 1 tablespoon salt, and chill, skin sides
up, uncovered, 8 hours or overnight. - Place 15 charcoal briquettes in an even
layer in a chimney starter; light
briquettes. Once briquettes are covered
with gray ash, use tongs to transfer 5 bri-
quettes to one side of bottom grate of
grill. Place 1 oak chunk on top of charcoal,
and insert top grill grate. Cover and adjust
vents to bring internal temperature to
85°F to 95°F.- Fill a rimmed baking sheet with a single
layer of ice cubes. Place duck breasts,
skin sides up, on a wire rack, and set rack
over ice. Place baking sheet with duck on
top grill grate over unlit side of grill. Cover
and smoke duck, maintaining tempera-
ture of 85°F to 95°F (adding more bri-
quettes if necessary to maintain
temperature) and allowing duck breasts
to become infused with smoke flavor,
about 20 minutes. Remove duck breasts
from grill, and set aside. - Heat duck fat in a large, high-sided skil-
let over medium-high. Add apples, and
cook, stirring occasionally, until browned
on all sides, about 6 minutes. Add butter,
and swirl skillet to melt. Stir in sugar and
remaining^1 / 2 tablespoon salt. Cook, stir-
ring occasionally, until sugar melts and
forms a golden caramel, 5 to 6 minutes.
Reduce heat to medium, and carefully
add duck stock. (Caramel will initially
seize up and splatter.) Cook, stirring
occasionally, until caramel is thick, syr-
upy, deep amber in color, and reduced to
about^3 / 4 cup and apples are fork-tender,
about 1 hour. Remove caramel from heat;
turn off burner. - Place brandy in a heatproof measuring
cup with a spout. Pour brandy over cara-
mel. Using a long match or lighter, care-
fully ignite fumes just above surface of
caramel. Allow flames to extinguish. Stir
to combine. Keep caramel warm over low
while preparing duck breasts. - Heat a large skillet over medium. Place
duck breasts, skin sides down, in skillet,
and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook,
undisturbed, until fat is rendered and skin
is golden brown, about 15 minutes, occa-
sionally spooning off drippings from skil-
let. Increase heat to medium-high, and flip
duck breasts. Cook until internal temper-
ature registers 130°F for medium-rare, 6
to 9 minutes. Transfer duck breasts to a
cutting board; let rest 10 minutes. Care-
fully add winter savory to skillet. (It will
sizzle and splatter.) Cook until crisp, 10 to
20 seconds. Transfer to a plate lined with
paper towels, and set aside. - Cut duck breasts into^1 / 2 -inch-thick
slices, and arrange on a serving platter
with apples. Drizzle with caramel sauce,
and garnish with crispy winter savory.
BOURBON Subtly oaky bourbon:
Jefferson’s Reserve Pritchard Hill
Cabernet Cask Finished
Hunter’s Stew with Duck Legs
and Cannellini Beans
PHOTO P. 97
TOTAL 4 HR, PLUS 8 HR SOAKING AND
REFRIGERATION
SERVES 8Soak the beans and season the duck legs
the day before you plan to make this
hearty stew. Braising the duck legs with
the beans creates an impressive and richly
flavored one-pot meal.13 / 4 lb. dried cannellini beans (about 4
cups)
8 bone-in, skin-on duck legs (about
12 oz. each)
41 / 2 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided
24 garlic cloves (about^1 /^2 cup) (from 2
garlic heads)
2 bunches fresh thyme
4 bay leaves
1 (750-ml.) bottle dry white wine
11 /^2 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and
cut into 1-inch pieces
8 cups duck or chicken stock
1 bunch lacinato kale, stems removed
and discarded, leaves cut into
1-inch pieces (about 5 cups)
Toasted baguette slices, for serving- Place beans in a large bowl, and add
water to cover by 2 inches; refrigerate 8
hours or overnight. Sprinkle duck legs
with 3 tablespoons salt, and refrigerate,
skin sides up, uncovered, 8 hours or
overnight. - Drain beans, and set aside. Heat a large
Dutch oven over medium-low. Pat duck
legs dry. Add 4 duck legs to Dutch oven,
skin sides down, and cook until fat is ren-
dered and skin is golden brown, 25 to 30
minutes. Flip duck legs, and cook, skin
sides up, until bottoms are lightly
browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer duck
legs to a rimmed baking sheet. Pour ren-
dered fat into a medium-size heatproof
bowl; reserve for another use. Repeat
process with remaining 4 duck legs, pour-
ing off all but 1 tablespoon of rendered fat
in Dutch oven after cooking second batch. - Using the flat side of a knife, smash
garlic cloves. Tie thyme bunches together
with butcher’s twine. Heat Dutch oven
with 1 tablespoon rendered fat over
medium. Add smashed garlic cloves,
thyme bundle, and bay leaves. Cook, stir-
ring constantly, until fragrant and garlic is
lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Return
duck legs to Dutch oven along with any
accumulated juices on baking sheet.
Increase heat to high, and add wine, stir-
ring and scraping up any browned bits
from bottom of Dutch oven. Cook until