16 NOVEMBER 2019
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HE YEASTED ROLL’S DENSE, spongy, slightly sweet Japanese cousin is
the serious sandwich-maker’s canvas of choice. At Los Angeles hot spot
Konbi, milk bread is arguably the best part of the iconic egg salad
sandwich, and at Peach Mart, the lovable new New York City conve-
nience store from David Chang’s Momofuku empire, it’s the loaf of
choice for the chicken katsu sandwich. Inspired by Hollywood bakery Bub and
Grandma’s milk bread, which uses three types of dairy in the loaves they supply to
Konbi, the Food & Wine test kitchen created this pull-apart version fit for a Thanks-
giving spread. Slather it with cranberry sauce (or, like us, cranberry kosho [recipe
p. 66]), dip it in gravy, and save any leftovers for French toast the morning after.T
Not Just a Sidekick Gorgeous bread service merits an
equally exciting spread situation–here are four favorites.DEL POSTO
(NEW YORK CITY)
Under chef Melissa
Rodriguez’s watch, bread
service comes with a rich
cultured cream reinforced
with crème fraîche.HOMEWOOD
(DALLAS)
Chef Matt McCallister
makes a dreamy Parme-
san Mornay dip with a
jus of chicken drippings,
butter, and herbs.LADY OF THE HOUSE
(DETROIT)
Their beautifully crafted
house sourdough rye is
the perfect vehicle for a
creamy dollop of apple
b u t te r.YOURS TRULY
(LOS ANGELES)
The Beurre de Baratte
butter with briny bites
of seaweed is a welcome
twist on the age-old
French staple.Pull-Apart Milk Bread Wreath
ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 4 HR
SERVES 1043 / 4 cups bread flour (about 20^1 / 4 oz.),
plus more for dusting(^1) / 3 cup granulated sugar
21 / 4 tsp. fine sea salt
2 (^1 / 4 -oz.) envelopes quick-rising yeast
1 cup whole milk
(^2) / 3 cup heavy cream
7 Tbsp. powdered milk
1 large egg
Cooking spray
(^1) / 4 cup unsalted butter, melted,
divided, plus more for brushing
Flaky sea salt, for garnish
- Combine flour, sugar, salt, and yeast in
the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
paddle attachment. Whisk together milk,
cream, and powdered milk in a medium
bowl. Whisk in egg. - Add milk mixture to flour mixture. Beat
on medium-low speed until combined,
about 2 minutes. - Fit mixer with the dough hook attach-
ment. Beat on medium speed until dough
is smooth, about 10 minutes. (Pull up a
section of dough, and stretch as thin as
possible. If dough is see-through but does
not rip, your dough is complete. If it rips,
continue beating until dough can be
stretched.) - Lightly grease a large bowl with cook-
ing spray, and place dough in greased
bowl, turning to coat. Cover with plastic
wrap, and let rise until almost doubled in
size, about 1 hour and 30 minutes. - Transfer dough to a work surface; cut
into thirds. Flatten each piece, and tightly
roll into tubes. Place tubes, seam sides
down, on work surface; cover with lightly
greased plastic wrap. Let rest 15 minutes. - Working with 1 dough piece at a time,
roll into a 20- x 12-inch rectangle on a
lightly floured surface. Brush with a scant
11 / 2 tablespoons melted butter; cut
lengthwise into 4 strips, and cut strips
crosswise into 6 strips each, making 24
rectangles. Stack all 24 dough rectangles.
Repeat with remaining 2 dough pieces
and remaining melted butter. Arrange
stacks in a lightly greased tube pan,
standing up like little books, allowing gaps
between dough pieces. - Cover pan with lightly greased plastic
wrap, and let stand in a warm place
(80°F), free from drafts, until dough just
reaches top edges of pan, about 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 325°F. - Remove plastic wrap, and bake in
preheated oven until bread is golden
brown and puffed, 35 to 40 minutes.
Transfer to a wire rack, and let stand in
pan 5 minutes. Remove from pan, and
place on a platter. Brush with melted
butter, and sprinkle with flaky sea salt.
—MADDY SWEITZER-LAMMÉ