7

PETER DOYLE

Doyle on Doyle, p

Whoever picked the TAFE

Apprentice of the Year in 1974

knew their onions. The winner,

Peter Doyle, went on to open

the restaurants Reflections, Le

Trianon, Cicada and Celsius,

then headed the kitchen at Est,

establishing a career at the

pinnacle of Sydney fine-dining

that is perhaps unrivalled.

Doyle’s focus on good cooking

hasn’t wavered in 40 years; as

he steps away from restaurants,

he’ll bring that commitment to

teaching the chefs of tomorrow.

ALISTAIR WISE

Masterclass, p

Alistair Wise is a pastry chef

based in Hobart. He tried to

make his mark in New York

and London while working

for Gordon Ramsay, but has

ended up back in his home

town whiling away his time in

an old ice-cream truck and a

bake shop with his wife Teena

and daughter Tilley. This month

he took one biscuit, broke it

apart, and put it back together

again piece by piece. “It’s

Darwin’s theory of evolution

applied to a biscuit,” he says.

YU-CHING LEE

Full flight, p

Collector of chocolate-chip

cookie recipes, Maillard-reaction

enthusiast and brown-food

advocate (“All the tastiest foods

are brown, from chocolate

cake to char kway teow”)

Yu-ching Lee once created

more colourful desserts at

restaurants such as Bistro

Moncur, Marque and Pier, but

now bakes part-time at Paper

Bird in Potts Point. She makes

simple, everyday treats with the

aim of exploring combinations

of flavours and ingredients.

CLAIRE DELMAR

Malaysian Melting Pot, p

Styling Tony Tan’s feature for

Gourmet Travellerthis month

was more than an exercise in

the visual for food and interiors

stylist Claire Delmar, whose

kitchen has always been the

most important place in her

home. “I saw creativity in my

mother’s love of cooking and my

father’s love of eating,” she says.

She believes moments shared

with friends over meals are the

most special, especially food like

Tan’s that “excites the palate in

exactly the way I like to eat”.

p 96

Black sesame,

brown butter

and wattleseed

cookies

16 GOURMET TRAVELLER

Contributors

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY (YU-CHING LEE), CHRIS CRERAR (ALISTAIR WISE) & AMANDA PRIOR (CLAIRE DELMAR)