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(Nancy Kaufman) #1

ON


DOYLE


M

y happiest moments in the kitchenhave
been the moments of camaraderie and
banter between the staff. You spend a lot
of time together, often under stress, so
a friendly atmosphere is very important.
Every successful service feels like a win.

The thing I remember most about my first day in the kitchenwas
the fast pace and the fact I nearly severed my index finger at the
first joint. One of the chefs squirted some powder on the deep
cut, wrapped it in a Band Aid, and I was told to “get on with it”.
It only took six months to heal and I still have the scar.

Things were diferent then.Restaurateurs were the owners,
not the chefs. Most menus tended to list thesame dishes of
“international cuisine”, which were broadly drawn from
French-influenced cuisine. The à la carte menus were very
long and the restaurant “scene” had not changed for decades.

There’s also a lot that hasn’t changed.The customer, for instance,
is still always right. And it’s still a long, hard day where the
satisfaction of caring for the customer and building relationships
overrides the financial gains. It’s a very competitive industry.

When I started, a big night out in Sydney meant silver service.
There was more emphasis on the dining room and the dishes
on the menu reflected that. Waiters were formal career waiters,
gueridon service was commonplace.➤
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