9

Italian restaurateur Valerio Nucci, of The Grand Hotel in

Melbourne’s Richmond, has been called Australia’s godfather of

vincisgrassi. He makes it with beef, chicken livers and lamb brains,

but sadly only rolls it out for special events now. Keep an eye out.

Find

one

I

t’s not technically lasagne. That would be the traditional

dish of Emilia-Romagna, whereas vincisgrassi comes

from Le Marche, the region just east of Umbria along the

Adriatic. But just as everyone has their favourite lasagne

recipe, there are just as many variations on vincisgrassi, too

(although, tomatoes are usually left out). The typical Marchigiano

version is made with wild mushrooms, prosciutto or lardo, and

chicken innards: le rigaglie del pollo. The savoury meat filling

is assembled with alternating layers of besciamella and sheets

of fresh pasta, before it’s covered with parmesan and knobs

of butter, then baked. As to the beginnings of vincisgrassi, the

common tale is that it was first created by adding extra ingredients

to a Bolognese to impress an Austrian general called Windisch-

Graetz. But we’re more behind the links to a recipe published

in the 1779 cookbookIl Cuoco Maceratesefor béchamel with

prosciutto and truffle, called princisgras – “grease of princes”.

THE FILLINGS

Traditionally, the filling includes a

combination of giblets, livers, hearts

and combs, along with sweetbreads,

brains and bone marrow. For those less

enthused by the idea of innards, it can

be served simply with prosciutto and

porcini mushrooms, but it won’t have

quite the savoury depth of the original.

TOPPINGS

The best way to garnish

a pasta al forno, or baked

pasta, is to scatter a good

amount of cheese on top

• most recipes call for
  parmesan – and bake
  until golden and bubbling.
  Depending on the season,
  vincisgrassi is traditionally
  served with shavings of
  fresh white or blacktrules.
  If you can spare the
  expense, they’re a must.
  And since there’s a certain
  earthiness to the dish,
  a sharp side salad of bitter
  leaves is of equal benefit.

Think lasagne is the ultimate comfort

food? Then you haven’t met its richer,

more savoury cousin, vincisgrassi.

Vincisgrassi

PASTA

Ideally, this rustic dish would

be made with hand-rolled

fresh egg pasta sheets (see

lasagne recipe p135), but for

vincisgrassi pronto-pronto, use

shop-bought fresh lasagne

sheets as a substitute.

BESCIAMELLA

Otherwise known as

béchamel, this classic

sauce – made with

a roux of flour and

butter, plus milk

• adds a creamy
  complement to
  the rich flavours
  of theofal and
  wild mushrooms.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 107

WORDS MAGGIE SCARDIFIELD. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING ROSIE MEEHAN. FOOD PREPARATION MAX ADEY

Central Italy

ANATOMY OF A DISH