his much-copied passatina di ceci e gambero, chickpea
purée with prawns. We’ll make the pomodoro later at
his home, but first we must go to market.
Today we’re visiting Campo de’ Fiori, not his usual
haunt but it’s close to other food landmarks he wants
to show me. We head to Da Claudio, the finest grocer
on the square. Ropes of chilli and garlic dangle from
shade-cloth frames; trestles beckon with purple artichoke
and golden zucchini flowers, Sicilian eggplant, butter
beans and Regina Claudia greengages from France.
We need tomatoes for lunch. “The best one to
make pomodoro arethisone,” he announces, fingering
the scarred bottom of a casalino, a popular heirloom
variety (pisanello in Florence, corleone in Sicily). “You
see, the modern ones are perfect; these are not.”
A stallholder spots Pierangelini and thrusts out his
hands. “Oh! Grande chef!” he cries.
For fish Pierangelini heads across the city to
Meglio Fresco, a sustainable fishmonger that also
serves lunch and dinner. “I go there when I want to
buy some good fish for the family. Just the fresh fish
of the day, whatever they recommend,” he says. He
might stay for some oysters – Meglio Fresco has an
excellent selection, including Ancelin, fines de claires
and tsarskaya – or perhaps langoustines. Or tuna.
A five-minute walk from Campo de’ Fiori takes us
into the heart of the Roscioli empire. Our first stop is
the Roscioli family’s original business, the bakery Antico
Forno Roscioli, established in 1972. “This is the place
where you have the best bread – maybe in Italy, in
Rome for sure,” says Pierangelini, who buys Hotel➤
GOURMET TRAVELLER 115