9

LAURA, MORNINGTON PENINSULA, VIC

The serious ambition and coin thrown at

the restaurant and sculpture park at Pt Leo

Estate have not rattled chef Phil Wood. The

flagship restaurant, Laura, which occupies

one end of a dramatic sweep of statement

architecture, displays a level of calm

maturity and forensic sense of place in

food, setting and service that make for

a sublime regional dining experience.

Wood’s food is as artful as the surrounding

sculptures, able to surprise and delight,

never neglecting the delicious. It captures

the essence of the Mornington Peninsula

as succinctly as the amazing view.

In short:A place to appreciate how great

Australian winery restaurants can be.

BERT’S, SYDNEY, NSW

Apply a dash of Slim Aarons, a good helping

of beach-house chic and throw in a splash

ofFantasy Island,and you’ve got one of

the most glamorous restaurant fit-outs

Sydney has seen in years. The luxe vibes

are conjured with framed etchings and oils,

caged finches and tasselled lamps against

a backdrop of pastel walls and northern

beaches sunshine. It’s a perfect match for

Jordan Toft’s menu. Hand-picked crab with

Basque spice? Coal-roasted flounder filleted

tableside? Frosty Martinis and a huge wine

list? What’s not to like?

In short: The king in the north.➤

PREVIOUS PAGE

hand-picked mud

crab roasted Basque

style at Bert’s. THIS

PAGE Clockwise:

meringue with lemon

cream, figs and

cumin ice-cream at

Laura; Bert’s, Sydney;

the dining room

at Rosetta.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 39

PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER (ROSETTA),JULIAN KINGMA (LAURA) & ROB SHAW (BERT’S)