DEEP BLUE_ >
MB&F HM7 Aquapod
Platinum RedFirst launched in 2017, MB&F’s
Aquapod was rather a shock –
it was round, for starters, and
more conventional fare than
watch-watchers were used to
from this iconoclastic house.
Now this behemoth – it’s
53.8mm across – is available
in platinum for the first time,
but is restricted to just 25
pieces. To compensate for
the weight of platinum, some
of this watch’s interior has
been altered – the numerals
are now 3D-printed titanium,
and the tourbillon bridge is
sapphire rather than metal.
Given that it only has a
50m water resistance, it’s
not actually suitable for
plumbing the depths – but it
will definitely look cool by the
pool. £150,000 mbandf.comCLEVER CLOCKS_
IWC Ingenieur Perpetual
Calendar Digital Date-MonthThere’s something of the
tool-watch spirit about IWC’s
titanium perpetual calendar.
Using this more prosaic
metal makes the watch
look somewhat practical,
but you can’t detract from
the horological fireworks
going on both dial-side and
under the bonnet. There’s
the digital date and month
display, the chronograph is
a flyback and you can even
take it for a swim. Powering it
is the 89801, which has been
programmed to recognise
different month lengths and
leap years. £33,500 iwc.comRICH AND THIN_
Audemars Piguet Royal
Oak Selfwinding Perpetual
Calendar Ultra ThinAside from a couple of
cosmetic tweaks, this Royal
Oak, which started life as
a showstopping concept
piece, is unchanged from
the original flight of fancy. It
remains the world’s thinnest
automatic perpetual calendar,
clocking in at a cased 6.3mm,
and is still powered by the
calibre 5133 which, unusually
for ultra-thin pieces, has
a full rotor rather than a
micro version. The signature
tapisserie guilloche has been
replaced with a satin-brushed
deep blue dial, which makes
the face feel less frantic;TONAL TIME_
Tudor Black Bay BronzeWhen Tudor first launched
its Black Bay Bronze in 2016,
it generated Kardashian-
levels of Insta attention at
Baselworld, with its larger
case and new in-house
movement – the calibre MT- This year, a simple
colour change made an
equally big splash. The
dial and bezel are now in a
gorgeous slate grey, while the
sultry ombré of the dial allows
the gilt-edged hour markers
and numerals to pop, and
| | | | | | | || | | | | | | || | | | | | | || | | | | | | || | | | | | | || | | | | | | || | | | | | | || | | | | | | |gives a lustre to the bronze
case. Add to that the grey-
toned strap in either fabric
or nubuck leather and you’ve
got a seriously stylish sports
watch. £2,910 tudorwatch.comSUPER SKELETON_
Oris Big Crown
ProPilot X Calibre 115Nothing is hidden in Oris’
latest calibre – you can
even see the barrel at 12
o’clock and watch it tighten
as the crown is wound. This
stripped-back aesthetic
extends to the bridges, which,
if looked at under a loupe,
are in their natural state –
no bevelling, chamfering or
unnecessary decoration.
In contrast to the futuristic
dial, the case is inspired by
an original pilot’s watch from
1938, given a 21st-century
update by being in titanium.
£5,600.00 (leather strap);
£5,950.00 (bracelet) oris.chDEEPEST DIVER_
Omega Seamaster
Planet Ocean
Ultra Deep ProfessionalOmega now has watches that
have gone everywhere from
the Moon to the bottom of
the Mariana Trench, thanks
to explorer Victor Vescovo’s
mission to explore the depths
of the five oceans. The super-
deep chops come courtesy
of a Liquidmetal-secured
crystal – heated to 280°C, the
metal is poured into the space
between the case and the
crystal and compressed with
five tonnes of pressure. This
particular Seamaster isn’t for
sale, but its innovations will
likely come to a civilian watch
soon. £n/a swatchgroup.comthe all-titanium case and
bracelet have been modified
so that both are mainly matte- with the bezel and middle
links bringing some subtle
bling with a tasteful dash of
gleaming polished platinum.
£poa audemarspiguet.com
058WORDS: LAURA MCCREDDIE-DOAK. ILLUSTRATION: NEASDEN CONTROL CENTRE11-19-GEgearoftheyear.indd 58 18/09/2019 16:55