TURNING Workshop lamp
90 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking October 2019 http://www.getwoodworking.com
33 A cross hole is needed to allow the cable to
come out of the side. A shop made drilling jig
that’s mounted in the toolpost is the best way
to keep the drill horizontal when making the hole30 It’s that pull cut again! The shavings just peel
off when the tool is presented perfectly like this.
I find that even with a 10mm bowl gouge, I can
remove timber quickly and efficiently, only switching
to the 13mm tool if vibration becomes a problem34 Thread the cable through all the sections – this
is the time you wish you had four hands! Each of
the joints needs to have some glue applied to them,
ready to be clamped
31 Anyone who follows my articles will know that
I like to finish the surface with a bevel rubbing push
cut. It’s always worth sharpening the tool before
carrying out this light procedure. The small shavings
tell me that the tool is cutting really cleanly
28 Drill a 60mm hole about 10mm deep followed
by a 45mm hole just over halfway through. The
60mm hole will serve as a chuck recess when it
comes to turning the piece around to shape the top
35 The Oneway lathe with its 3m bed is perfect
for clamping the four sections together while the
glue dries. I fed the cable through before I glued it,
as I found that easier than trying to do it afterwards36 Here it is in use behind the lathe and ready
for my next show32 The bead on the edge is called a tyre in the
business and is turned with an opposite action to
when working on spindle work; this is due to the grain
direction being different. It’s a difficult technique to
master but worth it if you want to achieve the best
finish straight from the tool29 Just like when fitting the stem together, it’s
important to get the joints matching so I like the
bottom bead to overhang the top section of the
base. This measurement can then be transferred
to the top of the blank