78 VegNews HOLIDAYS 2019
and toppings that no self-respecting local
could live without, including sautéed
strips of cactus, cilantro, smoky black
beans, and salsas ranging from mild to
totally intense.
Sunday brunch at the sit-down version
of Por Siempre (just blocks from their
street stand) is worth planning your
trip around. The decadent French toast
served with sliced fruit is the perfect
accompaniment to a mug of steamy hot
chocolate. Try and fall in love with the
molletes —a Mexican classic featuring
two pieces of crunchy bread topped with
warm refried beans, almond cheese, and
fresh pico de gallo.Very verde
It’s easy to get caught up in Mexico’s
vegan dining scene, but there’s more to
this dynamic metropolis than irresistible
tacos, ramen, and soft-serve. Between
the museums (don’t miss La Casa Azul,
where the artist Frida Kahlo was born,
died, and spent her life painting her
haunting self-portraits) and enticing
outdoor green spaces, you could spend
weeks relishing the city’s natural and
human-designed beauty.
For a literal breath of fresh air, escape
to the urban oasis known as Bosque de
Chapultepec. The 1,695-acre space—
often referred to as one of the lungs of
Mexico City—is home to the colonial-
era Chapultepec Castle, the Museum
of Anthropology (so enormous you will
need almost a full day inside), and paddle
boating on the lake. Make time for a stroll
through the cactus botanical garden, which
boasts an impressive display of prickly
agaves and soft-leaved yuccas.
Less than two miles east of Bosque
de Chapultepec sits Parque San Martín,
known locally as Parque México.
This popular space in the heart of the
fashionable La Condesa neighborhood is
the place to watch pretty people walking
even prettier dogs. Grab some freshly cut
fruit from a street vendor, find a bench,
and enjoy your afternoon relaxing and
taking in the street theater beneath a
luscious green canopy.
On a warm day, one pleasant way to cool
down is to hire one of the historic gondola-
like long boats (known as trajineras) fora magical tour of Xochimilco’s serene
waterways. The canals of Xochimilco
were constructed by the city’s original
inhabitants as a large-scale form of
hydroculture, and still exist as one of the
most beloved destinations in the capital
for both tourists and residents alike. Carry
cash to tip mariachi bands performing on
passing boats, and prepare to experience
an unforgettable, leisurely afternoon.Changing landscape
As Mexico City expands and evolves, so
does its culinary landscape, and there’s
never been a more exciting time than now
to touch down in the beautiful, dynamic
metropolis to experience its colorful and
creative food scene.
Whether visiting the bustling Central de
Abasto food market in the eastern borough
of Iztapalapa—with its barrels bursting
with dozens of varieties of dried chilis—or
the pop-up stall Ese Diego with its US-
inspired corn dogs dripping in ketchup,
crispy fries seasoned with Southern
spices, and stacked burgers loaded with
mustard and pickles, you’re bound to find
something exciting and unexpected to
tantalize your taste buds.
And if you’re looking for a destination
filled with eye-catching architecture,
stunning geography, and a spring-like
climate all year round, la Ciudad de
México is the place for you. It is thoroughly
enchanting, and your first visit will most
certainly not be your last.Sean O’Callaghan (@fatgayvegan) is
Director of Development for Vegan Culinary
Cruises; author of Eat, Drink and Live Like You
Give a Sh!t; and a part-time resident of CDMX.Peace of CakevegVACATION