EAT
SEHRLI TENDIR: This low-key,
rug-draped restaurant in the Old City is
one of the few places in Baku where locals
will queue for lunch. Alongside clay-baked
tndir bread, try dolma (stufed vine leaves)
and a side of motal (hard goat’s cheese),
washed down with dovğa (a yoghurt drink
with herbs). facebook.com/sehrlitendir
PASSAGE 1901: This converted bazaar
serves up mouth-watering meats, shish
kebabs and salads. The decor is reminiscent
of a Soviet-era house, with books, relics and
furniture from communist times found all
around the courtyard. Downstairs, tea is
served out of coal samovars, and there’s live
music most evenings. 20 Nigar Raibeyli.
MUĞAM KLUB: This open-air restaurant
ofers a menu of signature Azeri dishes like
grilled kebab, sbzi plov (lamb and rice with
leek and herbs) and qutab (thin dough with
cheese and spinach). Go in the evening for
a performance of muğam — melancholic
Azerbaijani folk music — then head upstairs
to explore the souvenir shops.
9 Haqiqat Rzayeva.AFTER HOURS
ROOM: Cosy and laid-back, with
a pinch of hipster — this place is Baku’s
answer to a Shoreditch wine bar. A few
feet from Fountains Square, ROOM is a
local’s haunt that’s buzzing by night. It
ofers great Azerbaijani and international
wines. facebook.com/roomineartwinedine
BEERBAŞA: This upmarket yet relaxed sports
bar is a short funicular ride from the centre
and serves some of the best beer in town.
Centred around a microbrewery, it ofers a
selection of pale and dark beers and ales, and
a menu including seafood, fries and German-
style sausages. beat.az/project/beerbasa
BARREL PLAYGROUND: This lively open-air
club is a relatively new concept for Baku’s
nightlife. Creative cocktails, themed DJ sets
and performances of techno, electro and jazz
make for a perfect summer night out. Open
seasonally. facebook.com/barrelplaygroundhe small print // housands
of tiny books — including one
that’s a nanoscopic 0.75mm
by 0.75mm — are on display
at Baku Museum of Miniature
Books. Bring specs or a
magnifying glass. minibooks.az
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; SITARA IBRAHIMOVA
October 2019 153BAKU