BUY
BAZAARS: Loud, colourful and
thronging with noisy stall-owners and
bargain-hunting shoppers, bazaars are
an integral part of daily life in Baku. The
sprawling Yaşil Bazar (Green Market) is
the city’s largest, selling fruits, spices and
pickles. Keşl and Tz are also popular with
locals. Beware, English isn’t widely spoken
at bazaars, but hand gestures will suice.
LABELS: If the likes of Gucci and Dior are your
thing, head to Netçilr Avenue opposite the
central Boulevard. ‘Netçilr’ means ‘oilmen’
in Azeri — in 1961, the road was so named
to commemorate those working on oil rigs.
Today, it’s a showy stretch of international
brands, but you’ll also ind Baku Puppet
Theatre and Government House here.
ANTIQUES: Discerning antiquarians should
head to the Old City to ind authentic Azeri
gems like a kilim rug from Quba (the area
famous for its ancient art of carpet weaving)
or traditional samovars and copperware.LIKE A LOCAL
TEA TIME: You’ll ind çayxanalar (tea
houses) all across the capital, and the drink
is oten served with a side of mürbb, a sweet
fruit preserve. Head to Çay Bağı 145 in the Old
City for a glass or two with a sea view, or duck
into the movie-themed Cofee Moie behind
Fountains Square. facebook.com/caybagi145
LIFE’S A BEACH: A 45-minute drive northeast
of the city centre is Bilgh, Baku’s most
popular beach, which is free to access and has
umbrellas and chairs available to rent.
HAMMAM CULTURE: Ağa Mikayil Hamam
is your best shot if you’re ater the
most authentic, skin-renewing scrub.
facebook.com/meshediibadhamami
SWEET THING: One of the nation’s favourite
sugary treats is şkrbura, a crescent-shaped
pastry stufed with sugar, nuts and a pinch of
cardamom. Paxlava, or baklava, is ubiquitous
across the country. In the summer, ind a
street-side vendor selling plambir — a simple,
delicious ice cream from Soviet days.All that jazz // Despite a
ban during Soviet rule, Baku
witnessed a boom in jazz music
in the 1960s and ’70s, when
composer Vagif Mustafazadeh
combined it with traditional
muğam folk music to birth
a hybrid genre
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ALAMYBAKU154 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel