IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; GETTY
MOUNTAINS
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Paradis
Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa;
Central Market, Port Louis; looking
out to sea, MauritiusScaling a mountain is never
easy, but on the Indian
Ocean island of Mauritius,
reaching the summit isn’t just
a physical challenge — it’s a
lesson in historyWhat a view. On one side, the deepest blue
lagoon beneath Le Morne Brabant mountain,
on the other, the Indian Ocean’s varying
shades of blue, from aquamarine to indigo,
into which taper Mauritius’ green southern
reaches. A metal cross marks the spot: the
island’s highest accessible point.
But the view up close is almost more
impressive. Caves, nooks, crannies and
overhangs shape the steep slopes of this
majestic basaltic mountain — a UNESCO
World Heritage Site since 2008, with a
summit that rockets 1,824t above those
Indian Ocean blues.
It’s been no mean feat to make it to the
top. Our hike starts at 6.45am, and is led by
two guides: the wiry, dreadlocked Mauritian
superhuman, Steve, who sets of at a pace
that puts even my infamous speed walking
to the test; and William, the tall, youthful
Mauritius-born Australian, equally able to
take one stride to my two.
Our group of 10 travellers — tourists
and locals — begin the swit 3.5km hike
up to the check point, weaving through
mapou and banyan trees, stepping over
buttress roots, trudging through mud, leaves
and stones. From here, only children over
10 can advance, although we’re warned it’s
really best suited to hardy teens, hence we
decide to do this part of the trip without
ours. We ind ourselves climbing, scrabbling,
grappling our way over volcanic rock, stony
grey boulders and trees worn smooth by
hands. The hike has turned into a vertical
ascent. At one point, we notice metal hooks
in the rock face, indicating a rope was once
in place to help haul trekkers up. Today,
however, it’s considered safer to free-climb
instead.
“It was too slippery,” says Steve. “It’s better
you don’t rely on the rope.”
One of our group, a Mauritian bedecked
in a sun hat, shades and a determinedly
cheerful disposition, is reduced to slow,
faltering movements. “I’m going slow, I’m on
vacation,” he says, panting. “Take a picture,
to prove I got up here.”
And once we do? It’s a truly epic view, a
victorious prize well worth the two-hourscramble. But the peak also harbours a tragic
past. The mountain stands proudly as an
exceptional testimony to local resistance
against slavery; the mountain was used as a
fortress and a shelter for escaped slaves from
the east; from mainland Africa, Madagascar
and India. The story goes, following the
passing of the Slavery Abolition Act by the
British in 1834, a group of soldiers and police
travelled to Le Morne in order to inform
runaway slaves they were free. The slaves, on
seeing the approaching authorities, climbed
to the top of Le Morne Brabant’s clif and
jumped to their deaths, choosing freedom in
death rather than a return to slavery.
“The British, Dutch and French gave us so
much good — sugar cane, cuisine — and so
much sadness,” says Steve.
Later that morning, at the nearby Paradis
Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa, where we’re
based, I ill my son and daughter in on the
climb.
“Le Morne means sadness,” I explain. “It
was named by the French, but the Dutch had
previously called it Mount Triest, which also
means sadness.”
“Yes, we know,” says my 11-year old
daughter. “The slaves threw themselves of
the top. It’s horrible.”
“And yet, it’s such a beautiful place too,” I
say, licking through our photos.
“Could I do the hike, mum?” asks my
10-year-old, gung-ho son.
“Yes, next time,” I say. “Lots of climbing.
Although your dad didn’t ind it that easy.”
But, as my children are learning, not
all travel is about the physical challenges
ahead of you. Sometimes it’s also about
understanding how a destination’s complex
past can shape a landscape too. MARIA PIERISeven nights’ half-board at Paradis Beachcomber
Golf Resort & Spa for two adults and two children
(under 12) from £4,930, including lights, activities and
transfers. beachcombertours.uk tourism-mauritius.mu
Best for: 10-plus, but teens are better suited to reach
the summitRead our top ive things to do in Mauritius with children
on nationalgeographic.co.uk/travelTRAVELLER 10October 2019 16502