National Geographic Traveller UK 10.2019

(Sean Pound) #1
Halifax Waterfront
OPPOSITE FROM TOP:
The Nook interior; the
35-day, dry-aged steak,
Primal Kitchen

Caffeine cool
Cofee shops are common as cod in this
harbour city, but there a handful of must-
visit cafes. One of the best is THE OLD
APOTHECARY in the heart of Downtown
Halifax — set up by a mother-and-daughter
team when word of their chocolate brownies
went viral during a local food festival. Named
ater the chemist’s that stood here in 1910, a
cofee and one of their delicious, handmade
pains au chocolat will set you up for the day.
theoldapothecary.com
One block over, the unpretentious WORLD
TEA HOUSE has 120 organic varieties of
tea that lat-capped owner Phil Holman
personally sourced from small ethical
plantations around the world. Whether it was
scaling Nepalese mountains or attending the

Known as ‘Hali’ to locals,


the city is one of east


coast Canada’s culinary


hotspots. From coffee to


lobster chowder, you


won’t go hungry in Nova


Scotia’s capital


weddings of growers, “traceability means
everything to me,” he says. worldteahouse.ca
What THE NOOK lacks in size, it makes up
for with heart. Not only is the cofee irst-
rate, but they also run a programme where
you can purchase a token worth either CA$2
(£1.25) or CA$5 (£3.10) at the same time as
your brew. You can give these tokens to those
in need, who can in turn cash them in for a
cofee and bagel. It’s a cafeine ix that warms
both stomach and soul. thenookhfx.ca

Historic hangouts
A local institution trading since the mid-18th
century, THE SPLIT CROW was Nova Scotia’s
irst tavern. Today, it’s swapped sailors
for students who have adopted it as their
campus bar. They come for the CA$13 (£8)

Halifax


LIKE A LOCAL


SMART TRAVELLER

36 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

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