National Geographic Traveller UK 10.2019

STONEHAVEN

Stay at home

Coastal walks, a dramatic castle and ine food

make this the perfect Scottish seaside escape

Just a 20-minute train ride from the Granite
City, Stonehaven is a generous slice of coastal
Aberdeenshire charm. Postcard-pretty, with
a walled harbour, whitewashed houses and
mouth-watering ish and chips, it’s an ideal
base for travellers looking to explore the
great outdoors. Beaches, coves and plenty
of hiking trails are available to while away
a long weekend. But Hogmanay is when the
town really comes into its own — locals lood
the streets come 31 December, swinging balls
of ire over their heads in a local tradition of
‘purifying the soul’. And getting to this corner
of northern Scotland is even easier on board
the newly renovated Caledonian Sleeper,
which runs nightly from London and arrives
bright and early in Aberdeen at 7.39am.
visitabdn.com sleeper.scot

What to do: The views alone warrant a trip
to dramatic Dunnottar Castle. Presiding
over the North Sea on a rocky headland, the
imposing fortress can trace its origins all the
way to the third century. It’s accessible by
car, but the 40-minute walk from Stonehaven
Beach — along a winding clitop path — is
well worth lacing up your boots for.
dunottarcastle.co.uk

Where to drink: Drop by The Ship Inn on
the harbour for a wee dram or one of the

Scottish crat gins on ofer. If you’re a serious

gin aicionado, however, jump on a train to

Aberdeen and check out Orchid & Porter’s Gin

Micro Distillery, which has won numerous

accolades as Scotland’s best cocktail bar.

shipinnstonehaven.com orchidaberdeen.com

Where to stay: Opened in 2018, Dalriada

Luxury Lodges’ clutch of ive self-catering

lodges sits high above the town, and ofers

chic self-catered stays in a supreme setting.

With views out to Dunnottar Castle, it’s the

perfect place to hole up ater a day exploring

the windswept coast. There’s the option to

add bike hire and access to the nearby golf

course, too. dalriadalodges.com

We like: Stonehaven’s most famous culinary

export is perhaps the deep-fried Mars bar,

but at Aunty Betty’s, you can get your sugar

ix with a giant ice cream covered in pick-

and-mix and mini marshmallows.

facebook.com/auntybettystonehaven

Don’t miss: Keep your eyes peeled around the

harbour, where you’ll ind maritime-themed

sculptures made of scrap metal — including

ishing boats and a lighthouse. Their crea-

tor was a mystery until this year, when the

‘Stonehaven Banksy’ was revealed to be local

artist Jim Malcolm. TAMSIN WRESSELL

WHERE TO EAT

Make a beeline for the

award-winning Bay

Fish & Chips. Right

on the seafront, this

is the place to go for

a delicious, locally-

caught fish supper.

Opt for the battered

scampi with a generous

squeeze of lemon.

thebayfishandchips.co.uk

FROM TOP: Dunnottar Castle; ish and

chips, The Bay

October 2019 39

SMART TRAVELLER